The Paper Chef - Paul's Entry

Ilva, from Lucullian delights, has resurrected a fun little monthly event: The Paper Chef, and yesterday’s unseasonably autumn weather was perfectly suited for the four ingredients selected- bacon, plum tomatoes, potatoes and swedes.

I bought all my ingredients (except the swede) from our local organic market- the tomatoes and bacon were both especially delicious. I did have trouble sourcing the swede. It is summer here, so that may explain the absence. Luckily Mike, was able to stumble on the elusive root, at the city markets.
My original idea was to make a soup, or a stew. Finally I added sausages to the mix and created my own version of Bangers and Mash. It was just the thing and the sausages and bacon added something different to our mostly vegetable based summer meals. I hope you like it.

Components.
400g fresh plum tomatoes, halved
2 garlic cloves, peeled
Extra virgin olive oil (fruity rather than peppery)
500g excellent quality sausages (I used miniature pork and veal ones)
A splash of red wine
250 swedes, cut into cubes (peeled weight
250g floury potatoes, cut into cubes (peeled weight)
Gruyere cheese, to taste
100ml cream (35% milk fat)
Sea salt
Fresh white pepper
2 slices bacon (organic is superior- no scary chemical additives)
Fresh chopped parsley

Process
Turn the oven to 180c. Place the tomatoes in a tray, cut side up. Drizzle over with olive oil and add the whole garlic cloves as well. Bake for about 20- 30 minutes or until cooked and slightly collapsed. Allow to cool and remove the skins. Roughly mash the tomatoes and garlic into a bowl.
Heat a little olive oil in a pan and brown the sausages for a few moments. Splash in the wine and cover the pan. Braise the sausages gently for 20minutes or until tender. Add the reserved tomato sauce and continue to simmer for a few moments more.
In the meantime, steam the potatoes and swede cubes separately. The swede will take twice as long as the potatoes. I lost count of the time, so judge for yourself. Pass the vegetables through a mouli to create a fine puree. Add the cream, gruyere, sea salt and white pepper. Heat gently, beating well to incorparate all the elements.
Grill the bacon until lightly brown and crisp.
Serve the sausages with the potato and swede puree, topped with crispy bacon. Sprinkle with parsley for the final touch.

Zucchini with Almond, Onion and Tomato

This is a recipe I used to cook when I was a teenager. I had forgotten about it until recently, when my mother sent my old cooking books down from my hometown Sydney. It was great to read again, the recipes of which I used to cook as a culinary obsessed adolescent.
The original recipe for this dish included sweet caramelized almonds, and I must say I thought the idea rather novel at the time. Back then I made the dish without the caramelized almonds because my mother didn’t have an appreciation of sweet things in a savoury dish, and it was too radical to even think of adding the almonds. Now that I’m a big boy, I do include the sweet crunchy almonds. I always get my way in the end. Ha!
To prepare the caramelized almonds simple toss some blanched almonds with a bit of sugar, a pinch of salt and a tiny drizzle of oil in a pan. The sugar will melt and coat the almonds lightly. The almonds are ready when they have turned a golden brown colour.
It is a revolting 42c today here in Melbourne and I am beginning to feel the sweat dripping down my arm as I type (not the most glamorous of descriptions, but so it is). So I bid all farewell until next year. We hope everyone has a wonderful New Year-prosperous and full of delicious foods to eat and wine to drink.

Components
Extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
500 g zucchini (courgettes), sliced
400g tin Italian tomatoes, crushed with a fork
Stock
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
A handful of caramelized almonds (see story above)

Process
Heat the olive oil in a pan, and gently sauté the onion, garlic and oregano.
Add the zucchini (courgettes) and allow to very lightly brown- about 5 minutes.
Add the tomatoes and enough stock to moisten the dish (about 100 ml or so). Cover the pan and simmer until the zucchinis are just cooked- cooking time shouldn’t be more 10 minutes.
Season with salt and pepper.
Serve hot, warm or room temperature with the almonds sprinkled over the dish just before serving. Serves 4.

Argentine Meatloaf

This is another one of my granny’s recipes, which I’ve fiddled around with to suit my own tastes and needs. I must say however, that it’s also the first time I’ve ever baked and eaten “meatloaf”. There’s a first time for everything, I guess.
It’s not the most glamorous looking preparation, but it is easy and tasty. My granny uses beef only, but I’ve added some pork, just because I think pork is nicer to eat than beef. I like to serve this cold the day after baking, sort of like a rustic terrine. It’s easier to cut into slices when cold too.
I choose to serve my grandmothers time honoured meatloaf, with my partners very modern rocket and mango salad. I like the idea of bringing those two dishes together. A meal inspired by the two great loves of my life- my Grandmother Marta, and my partner, Mike.

Components
500g minced beef
500g minced pork
1 carrot, peeled and grated
1 green apple, peeled and grated
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
2 free range eggs, mixed together
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper

Process
Heat the oven to 180c.
Combine all the ingredients together well.
Place into a lightly greased 21 cm loaf tin and pat the mixture down well.
Bake for about 30-45 minutes or until just cooked through.
Carefully pour away all of the fat from the tin.
Cut into slices and serve hot or cold.
Enough for 4–6 people

Heart of the Matter - Quick and Easy Vegetarian Ricepaper Rolls

I decided to start writing posts for The Heart of the Matter simply because it’s a great incentive for me to start eating a healthier diet. Not that my diet isn’t healthy, but you can never too healthy. Right?

I grew amongst Sydney’s Vietnamese community and even though at the time I had absolutely no appreciation of their cuisine, I most certainly do now. In fact it has become my favourite style of Asian food, and I can’t get enough of it. I love it!
Cooking in the Australian summer is not my idea of fun. If you can’t stand the heat, get out of the kitchen. So that’s exactly what I’ve done. My idea of “quick and easy” is “no cooking required”. And at the moment that suits me just fine. For this recipe, all that is required is soaking, mixing and assembling the rolls- quick and easy when prepared for 1 or 2 people. (I very rarely cook for more than 2 people). I eat these zesty little rolls unaccompanied, save for their dressing. The fat-free combination of carbohydrate and fresh vegetables, with the burst of herbs, is more than satisfying for me.

Pictured above (clockwise from the right) are long Red Chilli, Sweet Thai Basil, Garlic Chives, Coriander, Mint, Vietnamese Mint (or Rau ram).

Components
(for the dressing)
2 long, red chillies, seeded and chopped
1 garlic clove, very finely chopped
20g palm sugar, crushed
40 ml lime juices
60 ml water
60 ml Vietnamese fish sauce
40 ml rice wine vinegar.

(for the filling)
Rice vermicelli, soaked in hot water till softened and drained
Carrot, grated
Cucumber, grated
Bean shoots, string removed
Coriander, Mint, Vietnamese mint, Asian basil (plenty of each)
Peanuts, roasted and chopped
Rice paper (purchased from Asian food shops)
Garlic chives

Process
Combine the first 7 ingredients together. Taste and adjust as you wish.
In a bowl combine the rice vermicelli with the carrot, cucumber, bean shoots, herbs and peanuts.

Add a few spoonfuls of the prepared dressing, just enough to lightly coat and flavour the noodles. Reserve the rest of the dressing.
Take one sheet of rice paper and place in hot water until softened. Remove and place it over a moistened dishcloth.
Place a small amount of the prepare noodle salad on to the lower third of the rice paper. Fold the short sides into the center over the filling. Begin to roll from the lower end, adding a garlic chive just before fully forming the roll (the garlic chive should stick out of the end). Repeat till the filling is all used.
Serve immediately with the remaining dressing for dipping.

You can also serve these with Hoisin sauce, to which you’ve added a splash of Chinese black vinegar and sesame oil.

Apples & Thyme - Tallarines con Tuco de Carne

I don’t remember much of my childhood, but I do remember that I absolutely adored spending time with my “abuela” (that’s grandmother in Spanish). While most kids preferred to spend their time outside with a soccer ball (how boring and absolutely hideous, I still have an intense phobia of sports to this day), I much preferred to stay inside, watching and assisting my abuela prepare food for the family lunches we enjoyed every Sunday.

It would be true to say my Argentine born, paternal grandmother, Marta (pictured holding me above), influenced me most when it came to food and cooking. My appreciation of fresh pasta dishes is a direct result of observing her prepare various types of fresh pasta (click here for Mikes instructions on preparing fresh egg pasta). Canelones, lazañas, ñoquis a la crema, ravioles and tallarines are South American/Spanish names for the Italian dishes popular in Argentina and Uruguay. All of these dishes are sauced with a tomato flavoured sauce known as “tuco” (“tocco” is the Italian version).
Abuela Marta is the expert of traditional style pastas in my family, and luckily for me, she recently sent me a handwritten notebook containing recipes for many of the dishes she cooked for our family lunches. One trick I learned from watching her, all those years ago (which I have never seen in any Italian cookbook) is to combine the freshly boiled and drained pasta with butter, Pecorino cheese (or Parmesan cheese) and the sauce in a baking dish. The baking dish is then placed into a gentle oven for a few minutes, just enough time to fuse the pasta and sauce. This simple but important step acts by unifying all the flavours of the dish, and bringing all the elements together harmoniously.

For this month’s Apples & Thyme (hosted by Jeni at The Passionate Palate & Inge at Vanielje Kitchen) I’ve chosen to write about this particular dish, not because it unique in anyway, but because I feel that slow, family dishes such as these have gone out of fashion. I’ve never seen a recipe similar to my grandmother’s style of meat sauce. Pasta sauces nowadays tend to be either made with minced meat and tomatoes (like Bolognese or ragú) or a meatless, rustic tomato number (like Napoletana or Pizzaiola). I’m not saying one is better than the other, but sometimes it’s good to honour the past and remember how good those old, traditional dishes are. My grandmother’s version is fantastic, not only because the meat is cooked with the sauce thus lending its flavours to the sauce, but also because you get two separate courses- slow cooked tender meat, followed by the sauced, baked pasta.
If you like, you can substitute a large piece of beef (topside or silverside) instead of chicken. My abuela stuffs the beef with whole garlic cloves and herbs. Once tender, the meat is sliced thinly and enjoyed with a simple salad (dressed with a red wine vinegar dressing) and crusty bread.

Components
Olive oil
I kilo chicken leg portions (free range or corn fed) or beef (as described above)
½ red onion, very finely chopped
½ red pepper, very finely chopped
1 small carrot, peeled and very finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 dried chili, finely crumbled
1 tbsp thyme, finely chopped
1 tsp dried oregano (I like Greek oregano)
1 bay leaf
1 tsp Spanish sweet paprika (not smoked)
150ml wine (white or rose)
2 x 400g tins Italian tomatoes (chopped and mashed with a fork)
2 tbsp concentrated tomato puree
500ml chicken stock
1 tsp sugar
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Freshly prepared pasta, cut into thin noodles (300g tipo 00 flour and 3 free range eggs)
Melted butter
Pecorino cheese, freshly grated

Process
Heat a splash of oil in a large saucepan and lightly brown the chicken portions. If you are using a piece of beef, brown it on all sides.
Remove the meat to a plate and set aside.
Add the onion, red pepper, carrot, garlic, herbs and chili to the saucepan and gook gently for about 15 minutes or until lightly coloured.
Add the paprika and stir about for a few seconds.
Add the wine, followed by the tomatoes, puree and stock.
Add the sugar, and season lightly with salt and pepper.
Return the meat to the sauce. Simmer until the chicken is just falling from the bones (about 1 hour) or until the beef is tender (about 2 hours). The sauce should remain fairly liquid but concentrated in flavour. At this stage you can leave the meat in the sauce until you are ready to eat.
Heat the oven to 180c and gently re-heat the meat and sauce.
Boil your pasta until just cooked (literally seconds for noodles).
Drain the pasta and combine with melted butter, cheese and enough sauce to coat the noodles in a baking dish.
Place in the oven for 5 minutes and eat immediately. Any left over sauce can be spooned over individual portions, along with more cheese.
I like to serve the chicken or beef, after eating the pasta.
Enough for 4 generous serves.

Tomato Smothered Potatoes

If I’m going to be honest, I have to say that even though vegetable dishes where consumed at home, meat was definitely the star. Family menus were usually planned around the meat, the vegetables being an afterthought. That’s not to say though that the vegetables dishes we ate were boring. On the contrary they were quiet good, just not as appreciated I guess.
Both my mother and my paternal grandmother prepared this recipe. I’ve simplified the original method because my mother’s version is a little complicated (I think). My mother likes to deep-fry the potatoes in oil, on the stove. After the initial frying she bakes the potatoes with onion and tomato in the oven. I just throw everything onto a baking dish and into the oven. I find it much easier that way. Deep-frying can get a bit stressful sometimes. The finished dish is best described as tomato smothered baked potatoes.
The recipe I’m showing today was often served with bbq chicken and garlic mayonnaise. This is one vegetable dish in which I’m happy to pass up the meat.

Components
500g smallish waxy potatoes, peeled and halved
2 or 3 pickling onions, peeled and halved
About a dozen ripe red truss tomatoes
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil

Process
Heat the oven to 200c.
Place the potatoes, onion and tomatoes onto a baking dish.
Pour over a generous drizzle of oil. Sprinkle over the oregano, salt and pepper. Using your hands give all a mix, so as to combine all the elements.
Place into the oven and bake for about 30 minutes. The potatoes and onion should be golden and tender, the tomatoes cooked and somewhat collapsed.
Allow the veggies to cool a bit (about 5 minutes).
Remove the skins from the tomatoes, leaving the tomatoes still in the dish. Lightly toss the components together. The tomatoes should break up a little, coating the onion and potato with the juices and oil in the pan.
Return to the oven for another 5 minutes and serve immediately.
Enough for 2.

Sopa de Camote

My grandmother recently sent me a handwritten notebook containing some of the recipes she used to cook when I was a boy. One of the recipes was for sweet potato soup. I can’t actually say that I remember eating such soup, but I do remember that sweet potato was commonly eaten in the form of a sweet paste, called Dulce de Batata, with queso (a soft bland cheese) in much the same way as one would eat quince paste. I am now feeling inspired to make my own Dulce de Batata- I will get back to you on that one.
I have added cinnamon and rosemary to my grandmother’s austere formula, just because I always like to add some sparkle to my life. I honestly don’t know what my granny would think of cinnamon being included in a savory soup but I can tell you that it works extremely well.
I know sweet potatoes are not very summery, but I decided to do this recipe now because it is quick and easy and we all know how stressful December can be. And I wish to also dedicate it to my friend Vida, who is sweet, down to earth and humble just like a sweet potato. And just the same way that everyone loves potatoes, every one loves Vida too. XXX

Components
Olive oil
1 red onion, finely chopped
1 large cinnamon stick
1 rosemary branch (about 10 cm)
1 kilo sweet potatoes (I use the orange variety which is very common here in Australia), peeled and cut into cubes
Stock
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper and nutmeg
Crispy grilled pancetta
Crème fraiche
Fresh chopped parsley

Process
In a large saucepan sauté the onion and rosemary stalk in the olive oil for about 10 minutes or until softened. Discard the rosemary.
Add the sweet potato and cinnamon stick.
Add enough stock to submerge the ingredients.
Simmer for about 20 minutes or until the sweet potato is cooked through.
Remove the cinnamon stick.
Puree the soup and season with pepper and nutmeg.
Serve the soup hot, with crème fraiche, crispy pancetta pieces and chopped parsley.

Milanesas

I once read years ago (I don’t remember where, probably some high school history book) that the people of Milan were rather wealthy and apparently liked to show off their prosperity by colouring everything gold. Even their food. I have no idea if the story has any truth behind it, but it sounds good to me.
“A la Milanese” now usually refers to dishes which are gilded or resemble gold. Risotto Milanese is one of the first which comes to my mind. One of its ingredients is saffron, which lends the golden touch. Another form of “a la Milanese” is food which has been coated in breadcrumbs and fried until golden.
So what does this have to do with South American food?
Milanesas, as it is known in Latin America, refers to sliced meat, which is coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and fried in oil until golden. The meat is flavoured with a generous amount of finely chopped garlic and parsley before being crumbed. I’m not totally certain where this particular dish gets it name but there does seem to be a resemblance between Milanesas and the classic term a la Milanese. My sources tell me that Argentina does have the largest population of Italians outside of Italy (thanks Ilva), so perhaps there is a relationship?
While beef is commonly used, chicken is popular too. If using beef, a prime cut like fillet or rump will be appropriate. I like to use thigh fillets when it comes to chicken, although my mother preferred breast fillets. Personal preference, I guess.
In keeping with the South American liking of large serves of meat, milanesas can be quite large (the size of a dinner plate sometimes). I prefer my food in smaller serves, so the milanesas I prepare at home are somewhat modest in size compared to those found traditionally in other peoples homes and restaurants.
My mother always served beef milanesas with carrot puree. Chicken milanesas where served with potato puree. A tomato salad makes a great accompaniment to either.

Components
500g sliced beef or boneless, skinless chicken (free range)
2 eggs, lightly beaten (free range)
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Parsley, finely chopped
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Dried, fine breadcrumbs
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Process
If using beef make sure you have selected slices which are free of sinew and about 5mm thick. Chicken thighs need to be flattened to an even thickness (I use a rolling pin to bash them into shape).
Combine the chosen meat, garlic, parsley, egg, salt and pepper. Allow to marinate for about 15 minutes.
Take each piece of meat, allowing the excess egg to drip back into the bowl.
Dip the meat into a plate of breadcrumbs. Use the heel of your hand to press the breadcrumbs firmly into the meat. Repeat until all the meat is crumbed.
Discard the excess egg. The meat at this stage can be refrigerated.
Shallow fry the milanesas in oil until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper.
Serve warm with lemon wedges, ideal for two people.

Let Them Eat.... Alfajores!

I have been very unorganized of late, and it was quite by accident that I stumbled across the Latin American festival today in Melbourne. I just couldn’t help buying a boxful of traditional dulce de leche filled pastries to gorge myself on.
Let them eat…alfajores, I say!

So I did.

Slow Shanks (with Lemon & Spices)

I haven’t been around lately (just in case you haven’t noticed). Not only from the food “blogosphere” but mentally and physically too. Various reasons have slowed my world down. It’s been a time of reflection rather than a time of action. A moment to think. Or just read. But I can’t do that forever (as much as the introvert inside me wants to). It is time to wake up and smell the roses. Or smell the coffee, as some would say…


I am finding this family food topic more challenging than I initially thought. Growing up, we probably ate chicken 3 or 4 times a week. On those days we didn’t eat chicken we ate beef. Sometimes there was lamb. There wasn’t much variety when it came to meat in my family. But that’s okay. Now that I’m a big boy and I am free to make my own choices, and I do prefer to eat other animals than the fore mentioned ones.
My way of overcoming the lack of variety is by putting a twist on the old. In this particular recipe I have kept the flavours close to the original so as to not lose the unique nature of the dish but I have changed the cut of meat. Leg of lamb has been substituted with lamb shanks, thus altering the cooking technique from roasting to slow cooking.
Which is good, by the way, because I haven’t had much luck with lamb this spring. I have roasted various cuts, from various sources, but the lamb always turns out tough. It hasn’t made a difference either if I’ve cooked the lamb pinkish, or more well done. Something to do with the Australian drought perhaps? Thirsty animals with de-hydrated meat? Who knows…?
One thing I do know is that lamb shanks are absolutely delicious slow-cooked this way (thirsty animals or not). The flesh becoming absolutely sticky, tender and full bodied in flavour. An abundant use of lemon, pungent garlic, oregano and the aromatic spices is addictive. The aromas that assault the senses are amazing. Not to mention totally mouth-watering and divine.

Components
2 lamb shanks
1 lemon, juiced and zest juliennned
2 garlic cloves (or more), cut into slivers
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
1 tsp ground cumin
Nutmeg and black pepper, freshly grated
A pinch chili, powder or flakes
Sea salt

Process
Heat the oven to 150c. Pierce the lamb shanks with a sharp knife, here and there. Fill the incisions with garlic slivers. Make certain that they are pushed deeply into the meat, so that they will melt and perfume the meat as it cooks. Place the shanks into a covered ceramic baking dish. Use a baking dish just large enough to fit the lamb shanks without too much space. If you don’t have a covered baking dish, a roasting pan with a couple of layers of tightly sealed foil will suffice. The result however, will be superior if you use a heavy, lidded baking dish.
Drizzle the lemon juice over the shanks.
Sprinkle the salt, oregano & spices over the lamb and rub the shanks ensuring they are well coated.
Sprinkle half the lemon zest over the shanks and cover the dish with its lid (or foil).
Place into the oven for about 2 hours. They are ready when the shanks have become golden and meltingly tender. Allow to rest for about 15 minutes or so. Sprinkle over the remaining lemon zest and cover with the lid for 1 minute. The residual heat will help to release the citrus aroma from the lemon zest. Serve straight from the baking dish, with plenty of bread to mop up the sticky juices. This dish goes well with roasted or steamed asparagus.
Serves 2.

Chimichurri

Following on from my previous post, I thought I’d write about Chimichurri.
Chimichurri is the condiment that is traditionally served with beef asado and chorizo in Argentina and Uruguay. Sometimes it is used to marinate pork and chicken before grilling, but it is more commonly used as a condiment for barbequed meats.

The closest equivalent to Chimichurri that I can think of is Italy’s Salsa Verde. The proportions are slightly different however. Chimichurri is more assertive than Salsa Verde, the vinegar dominating somewhat, which is important as many of the traditional meats used for asado are rather fatty. The sharpness of Chimichurri balances the greasiness of the barbequed meat and chorizo.
I use a Spanish sherry vinegar- it is incredibly sharp and does the job superbly. You can use red wine vinegar but you will need to adjust the quantities to get the right balance of flavours. Garlic is crucial too, but I use less than my grandmother or mother would both use. I’m not particularly fond of raw garlic. I can think of many other things I would rather smell of (Chanel, Dior or Gaultier). But by all means, if you like garlic odours seeping from your bodily pores, add as much as you like! At least you will keep the vampires from attacking during the night…

Components
250ml extra virgin olive oil (use a soft grassy oil, rather than an assertive peppery oil)
60ml Spanish sherry vinegar (more or less)
60ml water
1 tsp Spanish paprika (sweet, not smoked)
1 tsp ground cumin
A pinch ground chili
1 garlic clove, very finely chopped
1 Tbsp fresh thyme, finely chopped
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
1 large bunch parsley, leaves only, finely chopped
1 tsp sugar
Sea salt
Fresh black and white pepper

Process
Combine all the ingredients.

Check the flavours, adding more vinegar, garlic etc to suit your palate.
Allow to sit for at least an hour to allow the flavours to blend.

Chimichurri keeps well, refrigerated, stored in a glass jar. Just remember to shake the mixture before serving, as it has a tendency to separate upon standing. Chimichurri is best at room temperature before serving.

Meltingly Tender Asado (Slow Roasted)

“Asado” is the South American word for meat barbequed on a grill over hot coals. The most popular cut of meat to grill for asado is beef rib. Morcilla (blood sausage), chorizo (spicy beef and pork sausage), spatchcocked chicken, and suckling pigs can make an appearance from time to time, depending on the occasion. Asado is traditionally served with Chimichurri (herb & vinegar sauce) and Tomato Salsa. I will post recipes for both condiments tomorrow and the day after.
The alpha male traditionally grills the asado and the women organize the condiments and salads. As I am (insert sarcastic gay accent) so butch and masculine, you can probably figure out which task I assumed when I lived at home.
I wouldn’t have the slightest clue how to light a fire, heat coals or stand by an outdoor barbeque with tongs in hand turning pieces of beef ribs and sausages. Maybe one day my father will teach me how to be a “real” man…
Actually I don’t even like eating asado. I find the traditional Argentine cut of beef ribs unappetizing- too much fat, too much gristle, too much bone and not enough tender meat. But Argentines and Uruguayans love it. So who am I to argue with millions of fanatical South Americans over their beloved national barbeque?
My version, I must admit, is more “Domestic God” than “Gaucho”. I prefer to slow roast my beef ribs in the oven- the result being meltingly tender, slightly sticky meat. My father’s head will probably spin like Linda Blair’s in “The Exorcist” when he reads this. But even though my method is not traditional, I promise it is marvelously tasty.
For this recipe try to find a butcher who cuts ribs the Argentine way- that is cut crosswise, across the bone rather than along the bone (see the picture below).

Components
Per person
1/2 kilo Argentine style beef ribs
Sea salt
Olive oil

Process
Heat the oven to 150c.
Season the ribs with salt and drizzle with a touch of oil.
Place the ribs into a baking dish. I use a ceramic dish with a lid. The ribs should fit closely.
Cover the dish with its lid and slow roast for 2 hours. The ribs will be tender (almost be falling from the bones, but not, if that makes sense) and well coloured. If you find the meat hasn’t sufficiently browned, turn the oven to the highest setting and allow the meat to colour and crisp a little.
Serve with Ensalada rusa, Chimichurri and Tomato Salsa.

Rabbit Escabeche

My grandmother recently sent me a handwritten notebook containing family recipes. One of the recipes in that book was for Rabbit Escabeche. For those who don’t know, escabeche is chicken or rabbit (or fish) braised in vinegar and served at room temperature. It is one of those old dishes from when refrigerators did not exist, and people had clever ways of preparing food to keep for later.
Strictly speaking this is not an escabeche, but the flavours comes close. I have played around with the original recipe slightly (I hope my grandmother doesn’t mind). I have kept the aromatics whole, whereas my grandmother cuts them into julienne. I have also changed the cooking technique; my grandmother does the whole thing over the stove, I slow cook mine in a covered dish in the oven. Obviously the stovetop version is quicker but I’m keeping that to do with boneless chicken thighs for a speedy, summer meal.
I must say I am extremely fussy when it comes to vinegar. Vinegars are not all the same, and the only way to find a good one is by trial and error. I’d heard people rave about a certain Spanish wine vinegar, which I reluctantly tried, thinking to myself that it was rather expensive for vinegar. Up until then I’d thought all vinegars where the same, but I now know better, and I now have 13 types of vinegar sitting in the pantry.
The accompanying rice dish is one from Chile. My mother had many Chilean girlfriends when I was a small boy. They were always popping around to have a chat in their native language Spanish. This particular dish was introduced to my mother’s repertoire by one of those friends, and I find it addictive. It is a very simple dish- white rice infused with garlic and green peppers, all cooked in the rice cooker. So simple, but so good. I had become nostalgic when I read about the recipe on Vida's blog the other day, and I just had to make it that night to serve with my braised rabbit.

Components
4 rabbit legs
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
2 carrots, peeled and cut in two pieces.
1 brown onion, peeled and quartered
50ml excellent red wine
50ml excellent white wine vinegar.
1 tsp sugar
Extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
4 small fresh bay leaves

For the rice
1 cup white, long grain rice
Sea salt
1 garlic clove, crushed but whole
1 green pepper, cut into large chunks
Extra virgin olive oil

Process
Heat the oven to 150c.
Season the rabbit legs with salt and pepper.
Place the rabbit pieces, carrots and onion into a small ceramic baking dish with a lid.
Pour over the wine vinegars and sugar.
Top each rabbit piece with a bay leaf and a piece of garlic. All should be in one layer and fit rather tightly.
Drizzle over a generous amount of olive oil. The oil will help balance the vinegar, and it will lubricate the lean rabbit.
Cover the dish with the lid and place in the oven for about 2 hours, or until the rabbit is tender and lightly golden.
Discard the onion and garlic. Allow to cool in the dish.
Rinse the rice until the water is clear(ish) and place it in the rice cooker.
Add an equal amount of water and a drizzle of oil. Season with salt.
Lay the garlic clove and green pepper pieces on the rice- they should sit on the rice and infuse it with their fragrance as it cooks.
Serve the rabbit and the carrots at room temperature, accompanied by the warm rice and green peppers. Serves 4.

Ensalada Rusa

I had decided to spend Sunday slow braising a rabbit in the oven. However when I realized it would be 30 plus degrees I quickly changed my mind- I did not think it a good idea to have the oven on all day with such warm weather.
Not to worry.
As I’m always prepared when it comes to food (the only area of my life in which I’m prepared), I decided to cook chorizo sausages instead. I served the sausages with Chimichurri sauce and Ensalada Rusa- a very traditional South American combination of dishes and perfect for summer.
Ensalada Rusa translates to Russian Salad from Spanish to English. I was surprised to learn from Mike that the Russians make a similar salad, but it includes diced beetroots (his parents are Russian). Maybe Russian immigrants brought it with them to South America? There is also a salad of the similar name in the repertoire of French haute cuisine, Salade Russe, but it is a much more complicated affair and contains too many ingredients for my liking.
This is probably the most popular salad in my family and is the obligatory accompaniment to barbequed meat (or asado, as it is known).
It is easier enough to prepare but needs attention to a few details for it to be excellent rather than mediocre:

• Make sure to choose waxy potatoes, as they will keep their shape when mixing the salad.
• Chop the carrot and potato into even-shaped dice. Smaller is better than bigger pieces.
• Don’t over cook the potatoes. I like to steam everything so they don’t become waterlogged or lose flavour.
• Be sure to use homemade mayonnaise. I have never tasted shop bought mayonnaise that actually tastes like mayonnaise (they are usually gluey and sweet).
• And finally (my own touch), whilst the potatoes are still warm toss them with a dash of white wine vinegar and olive oil. This simple step will give the salad extra flavour.

I know the world probably doesn’t need another recipe for mayo-smothered potato salad but this is a fine one. It tastes much, much nicer than similar salads you find at the supermarket deli. Besides, I have promised to write about the authentic, traditional foods of my heritage and this collection would not be complete without it.

Components
400g diced waxy potatoes (peeled weight)
200g diced carrots (peeled weight)
100g peas (shelled weight)
30 ml extra virgin olive oil
10 ml excellent quality white wine vinegar
Homemade Mayonnaise (flavoured with white wine vinegar rather than lemon juice)
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper

Process
Place all the vegetables (in one layer) in a steamer. Steam over boiling water until just cooked. You can steam everything separately if you want to catch the exact moment of each vegetable, if you like.
Place the just- cooked vegetables into a large bowl and toss with the combined oil and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. This non-traditional step gives the salad extra tang, without changing the nature of the dish.
Once the vegetables have cooled and absorbed the oil and vinegar, toss with enough mayonnaise to coat and bind everything. Check the salt, adding more if need be.
Allow to rest a while, or serve straight away. You can garnish with pretty pieces of boiled egg if you are feeling festive.
Enough for 2 – 3 people (or more depending on how many salads you are presenting).

Arroz con Pollo

My family ate this dish quite often when I was growing up. Essentially, it is an easier, simplified version of Spanish Paella. Traditional Paella was prepared for festive and larger family celebrations while Arroz con Pollo was kept for weekday dinners. Poor mans Paella cooked by his housewife, as I like to put it
Paella is cooked in a very, large pan outdoors on the fire. It contains a variety of seafood, as well as chicken. Arroz con Pollo, being somewhat uncomplicated, is cooked in a covered saucepan and apart from rice, contains only chicken as its main feature.
My mother used long grain Australian rice, but nowadays I prefer Spanish Calasparra, which is a round, short grain rice. It’s available from Spanish and South American food shops. You can replace with Italian risotto rice, if that’s easier for you.
Good quality, genuine saffron makes an excellent distinction, lending a delicate, but unmistakable floral quality. Although this dish is definitely superior with saffron, it isn’t absolutely essential. My mother often substituted luxurious saffron with inexpensive yellow food dye when money was tight. I don’t see the point of cosmetically enhanced food and I would prefer to leave out all together. Please yourself with whatever option best suits.
Serve this dish with a grated sheep’s cheese (Pecorino), sprinkled over at the table. The assertive, salty flavours of the cheese give a pleasantly pungent edge to the dish.

Components
Olive oil
1 Spanish onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ small red pepper, chopped into small cubes
½ small green pepper, chopped into small cubes
1 small carrot, peeled and cut into small cubes
1 tsp dried greek oregano
Fresh thyme, finely chopped
Fresh parsley, finely chopped
1 very generous pinch of Spanish smoked paprika
1 tsp of Spanish sweet paprika
1 pinch of dried chili powder
Fresh pepper, both black and white
800g chicken pieces (leg and thigh are best)
800- 1000ml chicken stock (fake is fine)
1 very generous pinch saffron threads
200g Calasparra rice
A handful of peas (I use frozen)
Pecorino cheese, to serve

Process
Choose a lidded saucepan that will accommodate the chicken and rice comfortably. Sauté the onion, garlic, peppers, carrot and herbs with the olive oil gently for about 20 minutes or until lightly browned. Add both paprika's and chili and cook for a further minute.
In a separate pan, heat some olive oil and lightly brown the chicken portions. Add the chicken to the saucepan containing the sautéed aromatics. Pour away most of the fat from the pan and deglaze with combined stock and saffron. Add the stock to the chicken and aromatics. Cover the pot and simmer for 20 minutes.
Add the rice, along with salt and pepper. Cover and continue to simmer for another 15 minutes. Add the peas and cook for a further 5 minutes or until the rice is just cooked. Should you find the rice cooked before it has absorbed all the liquid, turn of the heat, cover the pot and allow the dish to sit for 5 minutes or so.
Serve with grated Pecorino cheese.
Serves 2 – 4 people.

Torta Pascualina

I am convinced this pie, is the South American descendant of the Italian version with the same name. It is traditionally served during the Catholic week of Lent; hence the name. Torta Pascualina means Easter Cake (or Easter Tart) in Spanish (the Italian name is Torta Pasqualina). Obviously one is meant to eat this on Good Friday, but spoilt brats like myself don’t really care for religious observation. I eat what I want, when I want.
Originally, it was made with spinach. However proper, real spinach (not baby spinach) was not always available in Australia during past times, so silver beet was substituted. My mother tells me it can be very successfully made with frozen spinach- a convenient option, but I prefer to use fresh leaves.
I like a combination of fresh silverbeet and spinach, along with carrot, green peppers and peas for sweetness and texture.
Torta Pascualina is best eaten at room temperature. It is wonderful served at picnics and at family gatherings (religious or not).

Components
For the filling
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
¼ green pepper, finely chopped
1 small carrot, finely chopped
Olive oil and butter (20ml of each, or so)
650g silverbeet and spinach leaves, finely chopped
(Combined weight, I include some of the silverbeet stalk)
100g peas (I use frozen)
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
1 tbsp fresh thyme (or 1 tsp dried)
A pinch of chili powder
A pinch of sugar
Freshly grated nutmeg (I like plenty)
Sea salt
Black and white pepper, freshly ground
1 free-range egg
50g pecorino cheese, grated
2 tsp concentrated tomato puree

For the pastry
400g flour (Tipo 00)
1 free-range egg
20ml olive oil
Water
Sea salt

Process:
Preparing the filling
In a wide saucepan, soften the onion, garlic, carrot and green pepper in equal quantities of oil and butter. It will take about 20 minutes, done over a low heat-the aromatics should not brown. Add the silver beet, spinach, peas, herbs, spices and seasoning and continue cooking for another 20 minutes or so. The silver beet and spinach should cook right down, becoming dark green, smooth and sweet in flavour. Allow to cool. Check the seasoning- there should be plenty of nutmeg and pepper, with only a pinch of chili. Add the tomato paste, pecorino cheese and the egg. Set aside.

Preparing the pastry.
Mix all the ingredients together (add enough water to make a dough which is neither too soft, nor too hard). Knead for a few minutes until smooth. Wrap in cling film and allow to rest for a while. Divide the dough into 4 pieces and roll into rectangular pieces (15cm by 35cm). My grandmother almost always uses the pasta machine to roll out pastries (the machine gives a uniform, smooth result), and thus I do the same.

Construction and Baking.
Pre-heat the oven to 200c.
Place one sheet of the rolled pasrty onto a greased baking sheet. Spoon one half of the filling mixture onto the pastry.
Flatten the mixture so that it is evenly spread out over the pastry. Make sure you leave about 1cm around the edge of the pastry. Dampen the edge of the pastry with water.
Drape the next sheet over the top of the mixture and gently stretch the pastry so that the 2 edges meet.
Press firmly all around the edges to form a nice tight seal. Dampen the edges again with water then fold the edge over and press down with a fork to double seal the pastry edge.
Repeat the process to make a second pie.
Glaze the tops with beaten egg and pierce a few air holes in the top of the pie.
Bake until golden- about 15-20 minutes.
Allow the “torta” to cool and cut into slices.
You can also make smaller individual pies (perfect for work lunches), not traditional but charming nonetheless.

From the Land of Kimchi

This is my best friend Daniel plugging me on YouTube.
I have known Daniel for over 10 years and we have done a lot of bad, mad and dangerous things together over the years, even teaching me Korean Chicken Soup. He is possibly the coolest guy I know (apart from me).
We are going to be collaborating on another Internet project when he comes back to Australia. But I can’t say too much about that now. It wont be food related, just glamorous and fabulous, like us.
Here’s Daniel!

Paul's Heritage

Before I begin to document the foods of my childhood, I should better inform you of my background.
Both my parents are of Latin American descent.
My father is Argentine and his relatives have lived in Mendoza, Argentina for many generations.
My mother is of European descent. Both her parents were born in Portugal, but she was born in Montevideo, Uruguay- her parents migrated to Brazil and then settled in Uruguay.
My father and mother met in Sydney, Australia during the 1970s, fell in love and married. I was the first of four children.
I am Australian, but I don’t consider myself typically “Aussie”. Even though I was born here, my first language was Spanish. So for that reason I felt different to the other kids (as well as being gay- but that’s another story). For the first 5 years of my life I spoke only Spanish. It wasn’t until I started school that I realized Spanish was not the spoken language in Australia and that I had to learn English. And very quickly too! Apparently kids are better than adults at learning new languages. My mother struggled with English, and that is partly the reason why we only spoke Spanish at home (I’m sure my parents didn’t want to lose their South American identities either). She speaks English well enough now but with a strong Latino accent, whereas my fathers pronunciation is pretty much “true blue” Aussie.
Aside from language, I struggled with culinary differences. There was no vegemite, sausage rolls and scones for us at home. It was alfajores, dulce de leche and empanadas. In hindsight I am so glad for that now- South American food is much tastier than traditional Australian tucker!
Argentina and Uruguay have very similar traditions- both speak Spanish and eat similar foods. The main culinary influences of both countries are Italian, Portuguese and Spanish. We ate a lot of Italian style food modified to suit the South American palate. Later, I will be exploring the Italian- Latino fusion of pasta dishes. Argentines and Uruguayans are very serious about fresh pasta. My grandmother is an expert in the art of fresh pasta.
And of course, this legacy would not be complete without the South American obsession of barbequed, braised, grilled and roasted meat. Huge quantities of meat were consumed at home. In fact, when I think of my father, the first image that comes to mind is that of an enormous slab of Argentine style beef ribs and grilled chorizo.
I promise this to be a most authentic documentation of South American cuisine as I have experienced it- true and genuine, and to be revealed shortly.

Family Legacy

I think that by now most readers have a fairly good idea of what Mike and I like to eat. What remains a mystery though, is what we ate growing up as children.
In this modern, fast lifestyle we feel it is significant to document the foods and recipes of our traditional heritages. People don’t really seem to be concerned with the past anymore- especially when it comes to food.
We certainly do not wish to lose those dishes that brought celebration, comfort and joy to our respective families.
For now, Eat Me! will become our legacy to preserving the foods we both remember fondly from times past, both simple and festive.
Some recipes will be presented as they were, while others may be reinterpreted to represent contemporary tastes. Always we will strive to keep the true essence and authentic nature of these dishes.
Mike will describe the foods of his heritage, as I shall from mine. Our backgrounds are very different, but more about that later. We hope readers will find our recipes as exciting as we are looking forward to presenting them for you.

Happy Birthday Eat Me!

It has been 12 short months since Mike and I created “Eat me!”
Since I can’t do the same thing all the time without become bored, we have both decided its time for a new look.
Mikey and I are currently discussing ideas for the blog and will be taking a short break. We would like to thank all our friends who read and visit here regularly and we will be back very, very soon.