Zucchini with Almond, Onion and Tomato

This is a recipe I used to cook when I was a teenager. I had forgotten about it until recently, when my mother sent my old cooking books down from my hometown Sydney. It was great to read again, the recipes of which I used to cook as a culinary obsessed adolescent.
The original recipe for this dish included sweet caramelized almonds, and I must say I thought the idea rather novel at the time. Back then I made the dish without the caramelized almonds because my mother didn’t have an appreciation of sweet things in a savoury dish, and it was too radical to even think of adding the almonds. Now that I’m a big boy, I do include the sweet crunchy almonds. I always get my way in the end. Ha!
To prepare the caramelized almonds simple toss some blanched almonds with a bit of sugar, a pinch of salt and a tiny drizzle of oil in a pan. The sugar will melt and coat the almonds lightly. The almonds are ready when they have turned a golden brown colour.
It is a revolting 42c today here in Melbourne and I am beginning to feel the sweat dripping down my arm as I type (not the most glamorous of descriptions, but so it is). So I bid all farewell until next year. We hope everyone has a wonderful New Year-prosperous and full of delicious foods to eat and wine to drink.

Components
Extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
500 g zucchini (courgettes), sliced
400g tin Italian tomatoes, crushed with a fork
Stock
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
A handful of caramelized almonds (see story above)

Process
Heat the olive oil in a pan, and gently sauté the onion, garlic and oregano.
Add the zucchini (courgettes) and allow to very lightly brown- about 5 minutes.
Add the tomatoes and enough stock to moisten the dish (about 100 ml or so). Cover the pan and simmer until the zucchinis are just cooked- cooking time shouldn’t be more 10 minutes.
Season with salt and pepper.
Serve hot, warm or room temperature with the almonds sprinkled over the dish just before serving. Serves 4.

Argentine Meatloaf

This is another one of my granny’s recipes, which I’ve fiddled around with to suit my own tastes and needs. I must say however, that it’s also the first time I’ve ever baked and eaten “meatloaf”. There’s a first time for everything, I guess.
It’s not the most glamorous looking preparation, but it is easy and tasty. My granny uses beef only, but I’ve added some pork, just because I think pork is nicer to eat than beef. I like to serve this cold the day after baking, sort of like a rustic terrine. It’s easier to cut into slices when cold too.
I choose to serve my grandmothers time honoured meatloaf, with my partners very modern rocket and mango salad. I like the idea of bringing those two dishes together. A meal inspired by the two great loves of my life- my Grandmother Marta, and my partner, Mike.

Components
500g minced beef
500g minced pork
1 carrot, peeled and grated
1 green apple, peeled and grated
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
2 free range eggs, mixed together
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper

Process
Heat the oven to 180c.
Combine all the ingredients together well.
Place into a lightly greased 21 cm loaf tin and pat the mixture down well.
Bake for about 30-45 minutes or until just cooked through.
Carefully pour away all of the fat from the tin.
Cut into slices and serve hot or cold.
Enough for 4–6 people

Heart of the Matter - Quick and Easy Vegetarian Ricepaper Rolls

I decided to start writing posts for The Heart of the Matter simply because it’s a great incentive for me to start eating a healthier diet. Not that my diet isn’t healthy, but you can never too healthy. Right?

I grew amongst Sydney’s Vietnamese community and even though at the time I had absolutely no appreciation of their cuisine, I most certainly do now. In fact it has become my favourite style of Asian food, and I can’t get enough of it. I love it!
Cooking in the Australian summer is not my idea of fun. If you can’t stand the heat, get out of the kitchen. So that’s exactly what I’ve done. My idea of “quick and easy” is “no cooking required”. And at the moment that suits me just fine. For this recipe, all that is required is soaking, mixing and assembling the rolls- quick and easy when prepared for 1 or 2 people. (I very rarely cook for more than 2 people). I eat these zesty little rolls unaccompanied, save for their dressing. The fat-free combination of carbohydrate and fresh vegetables, with the burst of herbs, is more than satisfying for me.

Pictured above (clockwise from the right) are long Red Chilli, Sweet Thai Basil, Garlic Chives, Coriander, Mint, Vietnamese Mint (or Rau ram).

Components
(for the dressing)
2 long, red chillies, seeded and chopped
1 garlic clove, very finely chopped
20g palm sugar, crushed
40 ml lime juices
60 ml water
60 ml Vietnamese fish sauce
40 ml rice wine vinegar.

(for the filling)
Rice vermicelli, soaked in hot water till softened and drained
Carrot, grated
Cucumber, grated
Bean shoots, string removed
Coriander, Mint, Vietnamese mint, Asian basil (plenty of each)
Peanuts, roasted and chopped
Rice paper (purchased from Asian food shops)
Garlic chives

Process
Combine the first 7 ingredients together. Taste and adjust as you wish.
In a bowl combine the rice vermicelli with the carrot, cucumber, bean shoots, herbs and peanuts.

Add a few spoonfuls of the prepared dressing, just enough to lightly coat and flavour the noodles. Reserve the rest of the dressing.
Take one sheet of rice paper and place in hot water until softened. Remove and place it over a moistened dishcloth.
Place a small amount of the prepare noodle salad on to the lower third of the rice paper. Fold the short sides into the center over the filling. Begin to roll from the lower end, adding a garlic chive just before fully forming the roll (the garlic chive should stick out of the end). Repeat till the filling is all used.
Serve immediately with the remaining dressing for dipping.

You can also serve these with Hoisin sauce, to which you’ve added a splash of Chinese black vinegar and sesame oil.

Apples & Thyme - Tallarines con Tuco de Carne

I don’t remember much of my childhood, but I do remember that I absolutely adored spending time with my “abuela” (that’s grandmother in Spanish). While most kids preferred to spend their time outside with a soccer ball (how boring and absolutely hideous, I still have an intense phobia of sports to this day), I much preferred to stay inside, watching and assisting my abuela prepare food for the family lunches we enjoyed every Sunday.

It would be true to say my Argentine born, paternal grandmother, Marta (pictured holding me above), influenced me most when it came to food and cooking. My appreciation of fresh pasta dishes is a direct result of observing her prepare various types of fresh pasta (click here for Mikes instructions on preparing fresh egg pasta). Canelones, lazañas, ñoquis a la crema, ravioles and tallarines are South American/Spanish names for the Italian dishes popular in Argentina and Uruguay. All of these dishes are sauced with a tomato flavoured sauce known as “tuco” (“tocco” is the Italian version).
Abuela Marta is the expert of traditional style pastas in my family, and luckily for me, she recently sent me a handwritten notebook containing recipes for many of the dishes she cooked for our family lunches. One trick I learned from watching her, all those years ago (which I have never seen in any Italian cookbook) is to combine the freshly boiled and drained pasta with butter, Pecorino cheese (or Parmesan cheese) and the sauce in a baking dish. The baking dish is then placed into a gentle oven for a few minutes, just enough time to fuse the pasta and sauce. This simple but important step acts by unifying all the flavours of the dish, and bringing all the elements together harmoniously.

For this month’s Apples & Thyme (hosted by Jeni at The Passionate Palate & Inge at Vanielje Kitchen) I’ve chosen to write about this particular dish, not because it unique in anyway, but because I feel that slow, family dishes such as these have gone out of fashion. I’ve never seen a recipe similar to my grandmother’s style of meat sauce. Pasta sauces nowadays tend to be either made with minced meat and tomatoes (like Bolognese or ragú) or a meatless, rustic tomato number (like Napoletana or Pizzaiola). I’m not saying one is better than the other, but sometimes it’s good to honour the past and remember how good those old, traditional dishes are. My grandmother’s version is fantastic, not only because the meat is cooked with the sauce thus lending its flavours to the sauce, but also because you get two separate courses- slow cooked tender meat, followed by the sauced, baked pasta.
If you like, you can substitute a large piece of beef (topside or silverside) instead of chicken. My abuela stuffs the beef with whole garlic cloves and herbs. Once tender, the meat is sliced thinly and enjoyed with a simple salad (dressed with a red wine vinegar dressing) and crusty bread.

Components
Olive oil
I kilo chicken leg portions (free range or corn fed) or beef (as described above)
½ red onion, very finely chopped
½ red pepper, very finely chopped
1 small carrot, peeled and very finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 dried chili, finely crumbled
1 tbsp thyme, finely chopped
1 tsp dried oregano (I like Greek oregano)
1 bay leaf
1 tsp Spanish sweet paprika (not smoked)
150ml wine (white or rose)
2 x 400g tins Italian tomatoes (chopped and mashed with a fork)
2 tbsp concentrated tomato puree
500ml chicken stock
1 tsp sugar
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Freshly prepared pasta, cut into thin noodles (300g tipo 00 flour and 3 free range eggs)
Melted butter
Pecorino cheese, freshly grated

Process
Heat a splash of oil in a large saucepan and lightly brown the chicken portions. If you are using a piece of beef, brown it on all sides.
Remove the meat to a plate and set aside.
Add the onion, red pepper, carrot, garlic, herbs and chili to the saucepan and gook gently for about 15 minutes or until lightly coloured.
Add the paprika and stir about for a few seconds.
Add the wine, followed by the tomatoes, puree and stock.
Add the sugar, and season lightly with salt and pepper.
Return the meat to the sauce. Simmer until the chicken is just falling from the bones (about 1 hour) or until the beef is tender (about 2 hours). The sauce should remain fairly liquid but concentrated in flavour. At this stage you can leave the meat in the sauce until you are ready to eat.
Heat the oven to 180c and gently re-heat the meat and sauce.
Boil your pasta until just cooked (literally seconds for noodles).
Drain the pasta and combine with melted butter, cheese and enough sauce to coat the noodles in a baking dish.
Place in the oven for 5 minutes and eat immediately. Any left over sauce can be spooned over individual portions, along with more cheese.
I like to serve the chicken or beef, after eating the pasta.
Enough for 4 generous serves.

Tomato Smothered Potatoes

If I’m going to be honest, I have to say that even though vegetable dishes where consumed at home, meat was definitely the star. Family menus were usually planned around the meat, the vegetables being an afterthought. That’s not to say though that the vegetables dishes we ate were boring. On the contrary they were quiet good, just not as appreciated I guess.
Both my mother and my paternal grandmother prepared this recipe. I’ve simplified the original method because my mother’s version is a little complicated (I think). My mother likes to deep-fry the potatoes in oil, on the stove. After the initial frying she bakes the potatoes with onion and tomato in the oven. I just throw everything onto a baking dish and into the oven. I find it much easier that way. Deep-frying can get a bit stressful sometimes. The finished dish is best described as tomato smothered baked potatoes.
The recipe I’m showing today was often served with bbq chicken and garlic mayonnaise. This is one vegetable dish in which I’m happy to pass up the meat.

Components
500g smallish waxy potatoes, peeled and halved
2 or 3 pickling onions, peeled and halved
About a dozen ripe red truss tomatoes
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil

Process
Heat the oven to 200c.
Place the potatoes, onion and tomatoes onto a baking dish.
Pour over a generous drizzle of oil. Sprinkle over the oregano, salt and pepper. Using your hands give all a mix, so as to combine all the elements.
Place into the oven and bake for about 30 minutes. The potatoes and onion should be golden and tender, the tomatoes cooked and somewhat collapsed.
Allow the veggies to cool a bit (about 5 minutes).
Remove the skins from the tomatoes, leaving the tomatoes still in the dish. Lightly toss the components together. The tomatoes should break up a little, coating the onion and potato with the juices and oil in the pan.
Return to the oven for another 5 minutes and serve immediately.
Enough for 2.

Sopa de Camote

My grandmother recently sent me a handwritten notebook containing some of the recipes she used to cook when I was a boy. One of the recipes was for sweet potato soup. I can’t actually say that I remember eating such soup, but I do remember that sweet potato was commonly eaten in the form of a sweet paste, called Dulce de Batata, with queso (a soft bland cheese) in much the same way as one would eat quince paste. I am now feeling inspired to make my own Dulce de Batata- I will get back to you on that one.
I have added cinnamon and rosemary to my grandmother’s austere formula, just because I always like to add some sparkle to my life. I honestly don’t know what my granny would think of cinnamon being included in a savory soup but I can tell you that it works extremely well.
I know sweet potatoes are not very summery, but I decided to do this recipe now because it is quick and easy and we all know how stressful December can be. And I wish to also dedicate it to my friend Vida, who is sweet, down to earth and humble just like a sweet potato. And just the same way that everyone loves potatoes, every one loves Vida too. XXX

Components
Olive oil
1 red onion, finely chopped
1 large cinnamon stick
1 rosemary branch (about 10 cm)
1 kilo sweet potatoes (I use the orange variety which is very common here in Australia), peeled and cut into cubes
Stock
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper and nutmeg
Crispy grilled pancetta
Crème fraiche
Fresh chopped parsley

Process
In a large saucepan sauté the onion and rosemary stalk in the olive oil for about 10 minutes or until softened. Discard the rosemary.
Add the sweet potato and cinnamon stick.
Add enough stock to submerge the ingredients.
Simmer for about 20 minutes or until the sweet potato is cooked through.
Remove the cinnamon stick.
Puree the soup and season with pepper and nutmeg.
Serve the soup hot, with crème fraiche, crispy pancetta pieces and chopped parsley.

Milanesas

I once read years ago (I don’t remember where, probably some high school history book) that the people of Milan were rather wealthy and apparently liked to show off their prosperity by colouring everything gold. Even their food. I have no idea if the story has any truth behind it, but it sounds good to me.
“A la Milanese” now usually refers to dishes which are gilded or resemble gold. Risotto Milanese is one of the first which comes to my mind. One of its ingredients is saffron, which lends the golden touch. Another form of “a la Milanese” is food which has been coated in breadcrumbs and fried until golden.
So what does this have to do with South American food?
Milanesas, as it is known in Latin America, refers to sliced meat, which is coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and fried in oil until golden. The meat is flavoured with a generous amount of finely chopped garlic and parsley before being crumbed. I’m not totally certain where this particular dish gets it name but there does seem to be a resemblance between Milanesas and the classic term a la Milanese. My sources tell me that Argentina does have the largest population of Italians outside of Italy (thanks Ilva), so perhaps there is a relationship?
While beef is commonly used, chicken is popular too. If using beef, a prime cut like fillet or rump will be appropriate. I like to use thigh fillets when it comes to chicken, although my mother preferred breast fillets. Personal preference, I guess.
In keeping with the South American liking of large serves of meat, milanesas can be quite large (the size of a dinner plate sometimes). I prefer my food in smaller serves, so the milanesas I prepare at home are somewhat modest in size compared to those found traditionally in other peoples homes and restaurants.
My mother always served beef milanesas with carrot puree. Chicken milanesas where served with potato puree. A tomato salad makes a great accompaniment to either.

Components
500g sliced beef or boneless, skinless chicken (free range)
2 eggs, lightly beaten (free range)
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Parsley, finely chopped
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Dried, fine breadcrumbs
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Process
If using beef make sure you have selected slices which are free of sinew and about 5mm thick. Chicken thighs need to be flattened to an even thickness (I use a rolling pin to bash them into shape).
Combine the chosen meat, garlic, parsley, egg, salt and pepper. Allow to marinate for about 15 minutes.
Take each piece of meat, allowing the excess egg to drip back into the bowl.
Dip the meat into a plate of breadcrumbs. Use the heel of your hand to press the breadcrumbs firmly into the meat. Repeat until all the meat is crumbed.
Discard the excess egg. The meat at this stage can be refrigerated.
Shallow fry the milanesas in oil until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper.
Serve warm with lemon wedges, ideal for two people.

Let Them Eat.... Alfajores!

I have been very unorganized of late, and it was quite by accident that I stumbled across the Latin American festival today in Melbourne. I just couldn’t help buying a boxful of traditional dulce de leche filled pastries to gorge myself on.
Let them eat…alfajores, I say!

So I did.

Slow Shanks (with Lemon & Spices)

I haven’t been around lately (just in case you haven’t noticed). Not only from the food “blogosphere” but mentally and physically too. Various reasons have slowed my world down. It’s been a time of reflection rather than a time of action. A moment to think. Or just read. But I can’t do that forever (as much as the introvert inside me wants to). It is time to wake up and smell the roses. Or smell the coffee, as some would say…


I am finding this family food topic more challenging than I initially thought. Growing up, we probably ate chicken 3 or 4 times a week. On those days we didn’t eat chicken we ate beef. Sometimes there was lamb. There wasn’t much variety when it came to meat in my family. But that’s okay. Now that I’m a big boy and I am free to make my own choices, and I do prefer to eat other animals than the fore mentioned ones.
My way of overcoming the lack of variety is by putting a twist on the old. In this particular recipe I have kept the flavours close to the original so as to not lose the unique nature of the dish but I have changed the cut of meat. Leg of lamb has been substituted with lamb shanks, thus altering the cooking technique from roasting to slow cooking.
Which is good, by the way, because I haven’t had much luck with lamb this spring. I have roasted various cuts, from various sources, but the lamb always turns out tough. It hasn’t made a difference either if I’ve cooked the lamb pinkish, or more well done. Something to do with the Australian drought perhaps? Thirsty animals with de-hydrated meat? Who knows…?
One thing I do know is that lamb shanks are absolutely delicious slow-cooked this way (thirsty animals or not). The flesh becoming absolutely sticky, tender and full bodied in flavour. An abundant use of lemon, pungent garlic, oregano and the aromatic spices is addictive. The aromas that assault the senses are amazing. Not to mention totally mouth-watering and divine.

Components
2 lamb shanks
1 lemon, juiced and zest juliennned
2 garlic cloves (or more), cut into slivers
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
1 tsp ground cumin
Nutmeg and black pepper, freshly grated
A pinch chili, powder or flakes
Sea salt

Process
Heat the oven to 150c. Pierce the lamb shanks with a sharp knife, here and there. Fill the incisions with garlic slivers. Make certain that they are pushed deeply into the meat, so that they will melt and perfume the meat as it cooks. Place the shanks into a covered ceramic baking dish. Use a baking dish just large enough to fit the lamb shanks without too much space. If you don’t have a covered baking dish, a roasting pan with a couple of layers of tightly sealed foil will suffice. The result however, will be superior if you use a heavy, lidded baking dish.
Drizzle the lemon juice over the shanks.
Sprinkle the salt, oregano & spices over the lamb and rub the shanks ensuring they are well coated.
Sprinkle half the lemon zest over the shanks and cover the dish with its lid (or foil).
Place into the oven for about 2 hours. They are ready when the shanks have become golden and meltingly tender. Allow to rest for about 15 minutes or so. Sprinkle over the remaining lemon zest and cover with the lid for 1 minute. The residual heat will help to release the citrus aroma from the lemon zest. Serve straight from the baking dish, with plenty of bread to mop up the sticky juices. This dish goes well with roasted or steamed asparagus.
Serves 2.

Chimichurri

Following on from my previous post, I thought I’d write about Chimichurri.
Chimichurri is the condiment that is traditionally served with beef asado and chorizo in Argentina and Uruguay. Sometimes it is used to marinate pork and chicken before grilling, but it is more commonly used as a condiment for barbequed meats.

The closest equivalent to Chimichurri that I can think of is Italy’s Salsa Verde. The proportions are slightly different however. Chimichurri is more assertive than Salsa Verde, the vinegar dominating somewhat, which is important as many of the traditional meats used for asado are rather fatty. The sharpness of Chimichurri balances the greasiness of the barbequed meat and chorizo.
I use a Spanish sherry vinegar- it is incredibly sharp and does the job superbly. You can use red wine vinegar but you will need to adjust the quantities to get the right balance of flavours. Garlic is crucial too, but I use less than my grandmother or mother would both use. I’m not particularly fond of raw garlic. I can think of many other things I would rather smell of (Chanel, Dior or Gaultier). But by all means, if you like garlic odours seeping from your bodily pores, add as much as you like! At least you will keep the vampires from attacking during the night…

Components
250ml extra virgin olive oil (use a soft grassy oil, rather than an assertive peppery oil)
60ml Spanish sherry vinegar (more or less)
60ml water
1 tsp Spanish paprika (sweet, not smoked)
1 tsp ground cumin
A pinch ground chili
1 garlic clove, very finely chopped
1 Tbsp fresh thyme, finely chopped
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
1 large bunch parsley, leaves only, finely chopped
1 tsp sugar
Sea salt
Fresh black and white pepper

Process
Combine all the ingredients.

Check the flavours, adding more vinegar, garlic etc to suit your palate.
Allow to sit for at least an hour to allow the flavours to blend.

Chimichurri keeps well, refrigerated, stored in a glass jar. Just remember to shake the mixture before serving, as it has a tendency to separate upon standing. Chimichurri is best at room temperature before serving.

Meltingly Tender Asado (Slow Roasted)

“Asado” is the South American word for meat barbequed on a grill over hot coals. The most popular cut of meat to grill for asado is beef rib. Morcilla (blood sausage), chorizo (spicy beef and pork sausage), spatchcocked chicken, and suckling pigs can make an appearance from time to time, depending on the occasion. Asado is traditionally served with Chimichurri (herb & vinegar sauce) and Tomato Salsa. I will post recipes for both condiments tomorrow and the day after.
The alpha male traditionally grills the asado and the women organize the condiments and salads. As I am (insert sarcastic gay accent) so butch and masculine, you can probably figure out which task I assumed when I lived at home.
I wouldn’t have the slightest clue how to light a fire, heat coals or stand by an outdoor barbeque with tongs in hand turning pieces of beef ribs and sausages. Maybe one day my father will teach me how to be a “real” man…
Actually I don’t even like eating asado. I find the traditional Argentine cut of beef ribs unappetizing- too much fat, too much gristle, too much bone and not enough tender meat. But Argentines and Uruguayans love it. So who am I to argue with millions of fanatical South Americans over their beloved national barbeque?
My version, I must admit, is more “Domestic God” than “Gaucho”. I prefer to slow roast my beef ribs in the oven- the result being meltingly tender, slightly sticky meat. My father’s head will probably spin like Linda Blair’s in “The Exorcist” when he reads this. But even though my method is not traditional, I promise it is marvelously tasty.
For this recipe try to find a butcher who cuts ribs the Argentine way- that is cut crosswise, across the bone rather than along the bone (see the picture below).

Components
Per person
1/2 kilo Argentine style beef ribs
Sea salt
Olive oil

Process
Heat the oven to 150c.
Season the ribs with salt and drizzle with a touch of oil.
Place the ribs into a baking dish. I use a ceramic dish with a lid. The ribs should fit closely.
Cover the dish with its lid and slow roast for 2 hours. The ribs will be tender (almost be falling from the bones, but not, if that makes sense) and well coloured. If you find the meat hasn’t sufficiently browned, turn the oven to the highest setting and allow the meat to colour and crisp a little.
Serve with Ensalada rusa, Chimichurri and Tomato Salsa.

Rabbit Escabeche

My grandmother recently sent me a handwritten notebook containing family recipes. One of the recipes in that book was for Rabbit Escabeche. For those who don’t know, escabeche is chicken or rabbit (or fish) braised in vinegar and served at room temperature. It is one of those old dishes from when refrigerators did not exist, and people had clever ways of preparing food to keep for later.
Strictly speaking this is not an escabeche, but the flavours comes close. I have played around with the original recipe slightly (I hope my grandmother doesn’t mind). I have kept the aromatics whole, whereas my grandmother cuts them into julienne. I have also changed the cooking technique; my grandmother does the whole thing over the stove, I slow cook mine in a covered dish in the oven. Obviously the stovetop version is quicker but I’m keeping that to do with boneless chicken thighs for a speedy, summer meal.
I must say I am extremely fussy when it comes to vinegar. Vinegars are not all the same, and the only way to find a good one is by trial and error. I’d heard people rave about a certain Spanish wine vinegar, which I reluctantly tried, thinking to myself that it was rather expensive for vinegar. Up until then I’d thought all vinegars where the same, but I now know better, and I now have 13 types of vinegar sitting in the pantry.
The accompanying rice dish is one from Chile. My mother had many Chilean girlfriends when I was a small boy. They were always popping around to have a chat in their native language Spanish. This particular dish was introduced to my mother’s repertoire by one of those friends, and I find it addictive. It is a very simple dish- white rice infused with garlic and green peppers, all cooked in the rice cooker. So simple, but so good. I had become nostalgic when I read about the recipe on Vida's blog the other day, and I just had to make it that night to serve with my braised rabbit.

Components
4 rabbit legs
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
2 carrots, peeled and cut in two pieces.
1 brown onion, peeled and quartered
50ml excellent red wine
50ml excellent white wine vinegar.
1 tsp sugar
Extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
4 small fresh bay leaves

For the rice
1 cup white, long grain rice
Sea salt
1 garlic clove, crushed but whole
1 green pepper, cut into large chunks
Extra virgin olive oil

Process
Heat the oven to 150c.
Season the rabbit legs with salt and pepper.
Place the rabbit pieces, carrots and onion into a small ceramic baking dish with a lid.
Pour over the wine vinegars and sugar.
Top each rabbit piece with a bay leaf and a piece of garlic. All should be in one layer and fit rather tightly.
Drizzle over a generous amount of olive oil. The oil will help balance the vinegar, and it will lubricate the lean rabbit.
Cover the dish with the lid and place in the oven for about 2 hours, or until the rabbit is tender and lightly golden.
Discard the onion and garlic. Allow to cool in the dish.
Rinse the rice until the water is clear(ish) and place it in the rice cooker.
Add an equal amount of water and a drizzle of oil. Season with salt.
Lay the garlic clove and green pepper pieces on the rice- they should sit on the rice and infuse it with their fragrance as it cooks.
Serve the rabbit and the carrots at room temperature, accompanied by the warm rice and green peppers. Serves 4.

Ensalada Rusa

I had decided to spend Sunday slow braising a rabbit in the oven. However when I realized it would be 30 plus degrees I quickly changed my mind- I did not think it a good idea to have the oven on all day with such warm weather.
Not to worry.
As I’m always prepared when it comes to food (the only area of my life in which I’m prepared), I decided to cook chorizo sausages instead. I served the sausages with Chimichurri sauce and Ensalada Rusa- a very traditional South American combination of dishes and perfect for summer.
Ensalada Rusa translates to Russian Salad from Spanish to English. I was surprised to learn from Mike that the Russians make a similar salad, but it includes diced beetroots (his parents are Russian). Maybe Russian immigrants brought it with them to South America? There is also a salad of the similar name in the repertoire of French haute cuisine, Salade Russe, but it is a much more complicated affair and contains too many ingredients for my liking.
This is probably the most popular salad in my family and is the obligatory accompaniment to barbequed meat (or asado, as it is known).
It is easier enough to prepare but needs attention to a few details for it to be excellent rather than mediocre:

• Make sure to choose waxy potatoes, as they will keep their shape when mixing the salad.
• Chop the carrot and potato into even-shaped dice. Smaller is better than bigger pieces.
• Don’t over cook the potatoes. I like to steam everything so they don’t become waterlogged or lose flavour.
• Be sure to use homemade mayonnaise. I have never tasted shop bought mayonnaise that actually tastes like mayonnaise (they are usually gluey and sweet).
• And finally (my own touch), whilst the potatoes are still warm toss them with a dash of white wine vinegar and olive oil. This simple step will give the salad extra flavour.

I know the world probably doesn’t need another recipe for mayo-smothered potato salad but this is a fine one. It tastes much, much nicer than similar salads you find at the supermarket deli. Besides, I have promised to write about the authentic, traditional foods of my heritage and this collection would not be complete without it.

Components
400g diced waxy potatoes (peeled weight)
200g diced carrots (peeled weight)
100g peas (shelled weight)
30 ml extra virgin olive oil
10 ml excellent quality white wine vinegar
Homemade Mayonnaise (flavoured with white wine vinegar rather than lemon juice)
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper

Process
Place all the vegetables (in one layer) in a steamer. Steam over boiling water until just cooked. You can steam everything separately if you want to catch the exact moment of each vegetable, if you like.
Place the just- cooked vegetables into a large bowl and toss with the combined oil and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. This non-traditional step gives the salad extra tang, without changing the nature of the dish.
Once the vegetables have cooled and absorbed the oil and vinegar, toss with enough mayonnaise to coat and bind everything. Check the salt, adding more if need be.
Allow to rest a while, or serve straight away. You can garnish with pretty pieces of boiled egg if you are feeling festive.
Enough for 2 – 3 people (or more depending on how many salads you are presenting).

Arroz con Pollo

My family ate this dish quite often when I was growing up. Essentially, it is an easier, simplified version of Spanish Paella. Traditional Paella was prepared for festive and larger family celebrations while Arroz con Pollo was kept for weekday dinners. Poor mans Paella cooked by his housewife, as I like to put it
Paella is cooked in a very, large pan outdoors on the fire. It contains a variety of seafood, as well as chicken. Arroz con Pollo, being somewhat uncomplicated, is cooked in a covered saucepan and apart from rice, contains only chicken as its main feature.
My mother used long grain Australian rice, but nowadays I prefer Spanish Calasparra, which is a round, short grain rice. It’s available from Spanish and South American food shops. You can replace with Italian risotto rice, if that’s easier for you.
Good quality, genuine saffron makes an excellent distinction, lending a delicate, but unmistakable floral quality. Although this dish is definitely superior with saffron, it isn’t absolutely essential. My mother often substituted luxurious saffron with inexpensive yellow food dye when money was tight. I don’t see the point of cosmetically enhanced food and I would prefer to leave out all together. Please yourself with whatever option best suits.
Serve this dish with a grated sheep’s cheese (Pecorino), sprinkled over at the table. The assertive, salty flavours of the cheese give a pleasantly pungent edge to the dish.

Components
Olive oil
1 Spanish onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ small red pepper, chopped into small cubes
½ small green pepper, chopped into small cubes
1 small carrot, peeled and cut into small cubes
1 tsp dried greek oregano
Fresh thyme, finely chopped
Fresh parsley, finely chopped
1 very generous pinch of Spanish smoked paprika
1 tsp of Spanish sweet paprika
1 pinch of dried chili powder
Fresh pepper, both black and white
800g chicken pieces (leg and thigh are best)
800- 1000ml chicken stock (fake is fine)
1 very generous pinch saffron threads
200g Calasparra rice
A handful of peas (I use frozen)
Pecorino cheese, to serve

Process
Choose a lidded saucepan that will accommodate the chicken and rice comfortably. Sauté the onion, garlic, peppers, carrot and herbs with the olive oil gently for about 20 minutes or until lightly browned. Add both paprika's and chili and cook for a further minute.
In a separate pan, heat some olive oil and lightly brown the chicken portions. Add the chicken to the saucepan containing the sautéed aromatics. Pour away most of the fat from the pan and deglaze with combined stock and saffron. Add the stock to the chicken and aromatics. Cover the pot and simmer for 20 minutes.
Add the rice, along with salt and pepper. Cover and continue to simmer for another 15 minutes. Add the peas and cook for a further 5 minutes or until the rice is just cooked. Should you find the rice cooked before it has absorbed all the liquid, turn of the heat, cover the pot and allow the dish to sit for 5 minutes or so.
Serve with grated Pecorino cheese.
Serves 2 – 4 people.

Torta Pascualina

I am convinced this pie, is the South American descendant of the Italian version with the same name. It is traditionally served during the Catholic week of Lent; hence the name. Torta Pascualina means Easter Cake (or Easter Tart) in Spanish (the Italian name is Torta Pasqualina). Obviously one is meant to eat this on Good Friday, but spoilt brats like myself don’t really care for religious observation. I eat what I want, when I want.
Originally, it was made with spinach. However proper, real spinach (not baby spinach) was not always available in Australia during past times, so silver beet was substituted. My mother tells me it can be very successfully made with frozen spinach- a convenient option, but I prefer to use fresh leaves.
I like a combination of fresh silverbeet and spinach, along with carrot, green peppers and peas for sweetness and texture.
Torta Pascualina is best eaten at room temperature. It is wonderful served at picnics and at family gatherings (religious or not).

Components
For the filling
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
¼ green pepper, finely chopped
1 small carrot, finely chopped
Olive oil and butter (20ml of each, or so)
650g silverbeet and spinach leaves, finely chopped
(Combined weight, I include some of the silverbeet stalk)
100g peas (I use frozen)
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
1 tbsp fresh thyme (or 1 tsp dried)
A pinch of chili powder
A pinch of sugar
Freshly grated nutmeg (I like plenty)
Sea salt
Black and white pepper, freshly ground
1 free-range egg
50g pecorino cheese, grated
2 tsp concentrated tomato puree

For the pastry
400g flour (Tipo 00)
1 free-range egg
20ml olive oil
Water
Sea salt

Process:
Preparing the filling
In a wide saucepan, soften the onion, garlic, carrot and green pepper in equal quantities of oil and butter. It will take about 20 minutes, done over a low heat-the aromatics should not brown. Add the silver beet, spinach, peas, herbs, spices and seasoning and continue cooking for another 20 minutes or so. The silver beet and spinach should cook right down, becoming dark green, smooth and sweet in flavour. Allow to cool. Check the seasoning- there should be plenty of nutmeg and pepper, with only a pinch of chili. Add the tomato paste, pecorino cheese and the egg. Set aside.

Preparing the pastry.
Mix all the ingredients together (add enough water to make a dough which is neither too soft, nor too hard). Knead for a few minutes until smooth. Wrap in cling film and allow to rest for a while. Divide the dough into 4 pieces and roll into rectangular pieces (15cm by 35cm). My grandmother almost always uses the pasta machine to roll out pastries (the machine gives a uniform, smooth result), and thus I do the same.

Construction and Baking.
Pre-heat the oven to 200c.
Place one sheet of the rolled pasrty onto a greased baking sheet. Spoon one half of the filling mixture onto the pastry.
Flatten the mixture so that it is evenly spread out over the pastry. Make sure you leave about 1cm around the edge of the pastry. Dampen the edge of the pastry with water.
Drape the next sheet over the top of the mixture and gently stretch the pastry so that the 2 edges meet.
Press firmly all around the edges to form a nice tight seal. Dampen the edges again with water then fold the edge over and press down with a fork to double seal the pastry edge.
Repeat the process to make a second pie.
Glaze the tops with beaten egg and pierce a few air holes in the top of the pie.
Bake until golden- about 15-20 minutes.
Allow the “torta” to cool and cut into slices.
You can also make smaller individual pies (perfect for work lunches), not traditional but charming nonetheless.

From the Land of Kimchi

This is my best friend Daniel plugging me on YouTube.
I have known Daniel for over 10 years and we have done a lot of bad, mad and dangerous things together over the years, even teaching me Korean Chicken Soup. He is possibly the coolest guy I know (apart from me).
We are going to be collaborating on another Internet project when he comes back to Australia. But I can’t say too much about that now. It wont be food related, just glamorous and fabulous, like us.
Here’s Daniel!

Paul's Heritage

Before I begin to document the foods of my childhood, I should better inform you of my background.
Both my parents are of Latin American descent.
My father is Argentine and his relatives have lived in Mendoza, Argentina for many generations.
My mother is of European descent. Both her parents were born in Portugal, but she was born in Montevideo, Uruguay- her parents migrated to Brazil and then settled in Uruguay.
My father and mother met in Sydney, Australia during the 1970s, fell in love and married. I was the first of four children.
I am Australian, but I don’t consider myself typically “Aussie”. Even though I was born here, my first language was Spanish. So for that reason I felt different to the other kids (as well as being gay- but that’s another story). For the first 5 years of my life I spoke only Spanish. It wasn’t until I started school that I realized Spanish was not the spoken language in Australia and that I had to learn English. And very quickly too! Apparently kids are better than adults at learning new languages. My mother struggled with English, and that is partly the reason why we only spoke Spanish at home (I’m sure my parents didn’t want to lose their South American identities either). She speaks English well enough now but with a strong Latino accent, whereas my fathers pronunciation is pretty much “true blue” Aussie.
Aside from language, I struggled with culinary differences. There was no vegemite, sausage rolls and scones for us at home. It was alfajores, dulce de leche and empanadas. In hindsight I am so glad for that now- South American food is much tastier than traditional Australian tucker!
Argentina and Uruguay have very similar traditions- both speak Spanish and eat similar foods. The main culinary influences of both countries are Italian, Portuguese and Spanish. We ate a lot of Italian style food modified to suit the South American palate. Later, I will be exploring the Italian- Latino fusion of pasta dishes. Argentines and Uruguayans are very serious about fresh pasta. My grandmother is an expert in the art of fresh pasta.
And of course, this legacy would not be complete without the South American obsession of barbequed, braised, grilled and roasted meat. Huge quantities of meat were consumed at home. In fact, when I think of my father, the first image that comes to mind is that of an enormous slab of Argentine style beef ribs and grilled chorizo.
I promise this to be a most authentic documentation of South American cuisine as I have experienced it- true and genuine, and to be revealed shortly.

Family Legacy

I think that by now most readers have a fairly good idea of what Mike and I like to eat. What remains a mystery though, is what we ate growing up as children.
In this modern, fast lifestyle we feel it is significant to document the foods and recipes of our traditional heritages. People don’t really seem to be concerned with the past anymore- especially when it comes to food.
We certainly do not wish to lose those dishes that brought celebration, comfort and joy to our respective families.
For now, Eat Me! will become our legacy to preserving the foods we both remember fondly from times past, both simple and festive.
Some recipes will be presented as they were, while others may be reinterpreted to represent contemporary tastes. Always we will strive to keep the true essence and authentic nature of these dishes.
Mike will describe the foods of his heritage, as I shall from mine. Our backgrounds are very different, but more about that later. We hope readers will find our recipes as exciting as we are looking forward to presenting them for you.

Happy Birthday Eat Me!

It has been 12 short months since Mike and I created “Eat me!”
Since I can’t do the same thing all the time without become bored, we have both decided its time for a new look.
Mikey and I are currently discussing ideas for the blog and will be taking a short break. We would like to thank all our friends who read and visit here regularly and we will be back very, very soon.

Pink Veal in Pink Wine

(How gay can I get?)

This is my interpretation of the famous Milanese Ossobuco. I have swapped the white wine from the traditional recipe with a semi dry Rosé. I have been cooking with pink wine for the past few months where recipes call for white wine. The end result seems more balanced- white wine can sometimes taste too sour.
The traditional partnering for ossobuco is saffron risotto. With all the confident flavours of the braise, I think risotto becomes a bit misplaced. I prefer potato puree as an accessory. Playing on that theme, I have taken liberty to add saffron to the puree. The primrose hued puree looks wonderful on the plate alongside the orange of the carrot and green celery. Lots of pretty colours for the springtime!
This dish perfect right now while the weather is still cool at night. High quality pale veal is in abundance and available at the butchers at Prahran Markets, rather inexpensively I might add.

Components
1 kilo white veal ossobuco
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Flour
50g butter
50ml brandy
2 anchovy fillets
250 ml rose wine (not a sweet wine)
Stock (beef or chicken is fine)
Small carrots, peeled
Celery stalks, peeled to remove the strings
For the “gremolata”:
Orange zest, very finely chopped
Lemon zest, very finely chopped
Garlic, finely chopped
Parsley leaves, very finely chopped

Process
Season the veal with salt and pepper, and dust lightly with flour.
Melt the butter in a pot large enough to fit the veal and brown the veal on all sides. Keep an eye on the butter- it must not burn.
Add the cognac and flambé (very spectacular).
Add the anchovies, wine, and enough stock to submerge the meat. Simmer gently for about 1 hour, or until tender. The meat should be extremely tender (and it will be, if it is genuine veal), but it shouldn’t be falling of the bones. Again keep an eye on it, and stop cooking before the moment. There is nothing worse than a pot of bones with pieces of veal floating about separately.
Gently remove the delicate veal to a plate and keep warm.
Add the carrots and celery stalks to the liquid in the pot and simmer until both are cooked to your liking- the carrot will take longer than the celery. Remove the veggies and keep warm with veal.
Boil the liquid in the pot until it has reduced to a glaze.
Whilst this is happening, mix citrus zests, garlic and parsley for the “gremolata”. I use less garlic than everything else (I’m not a fan of raw garlic).
Return the veal, veggies and a few spoonfuls of gremolata to the pot. Allow to heat through for a few moments.
Serve immediately with more gremolata sprinkled over and with saffron potato puree, or risotto as you wish. Serves 2-4 people.

Saffron Rice Salad with Scallops & Seaweed

I would like to begin by saying that I don’t really eat leftovers. I never liked the idea as a child and I don’t like the idea now. It kind of grosses me out.
Allow me to clarify as to what I mean by “leftovers”.
What I mean by leftovers is tonight’s cooked dinner to be reheated the following day. Now, I’m not talking about braises, stews, thick soups etc. We all know these foods improve upon a nights rest, after slow cooking. There are foods which don’t survive the whole reheating process without turning to mush, or what I like to call “old people” food. Foods that come under this category are usually pasta, risotto, some vegetables and some meats (chicken breast and fish especially). I particularly hate the way pasta soaks up moisture, swells upon sitting, and inevitably turns to a pappy mess upon reheating.
Food to me is as much about texture, as it is about taste.
The whole point of pasta is texture. Robbing the dish of this essential quality doesn’t really leave it with much integrity. It reminds me of Monday night dinners when I was a child. We always ate Sunday’s cooked pasta leftovers for dinner the next night. I always complained. And my mother always told me to shut up and eat. The experience scarred me for life and I vowed never to eat soggy pasta ever again…
There are some exceptions to my rule.
Lasagne is okay. Its not really what I would call “al dente” to begin with anyway. And I don’t mind pizza reheated the next day. Especially if I’ve had a trashy night before. Pizza and hangovers are a culinary marriage made in heaven (or drunkenness…)
There are some leftovers that will be fine as long as they are eaten cold or at room temperature. Roast meat (not lamb, its too greasy) and vegetables. Root vegetables in particular. I usually toss cold roasted vegetables with tinned tuna and freshly made vinaigrette. It makes a quick, tasty lunch without much effort.
Which brings me to today’s recipe. I invented this dish from leftover saffron rice. Saffron is just too expensive for the compost heap. I cook my rice in one of those Asian rice cookers. I like the firm texture when its cooked that way, and I don’t need to think about it-it does all the work for me.

Components
200g cold, cooked saffron rice (basmati)
100g cooked chickpeas (tinned)
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
A piece of fresh ginger, finely chopped
20 ml of dark soy sauce
40 ml peanut oil
Chili powder
10 fresh scallops
5ml rice vinegar
5ml light soy sauce
5ml fish sauce
Fresh coriander, leaves
Roasted seafood strips
Lemon or lime wedges

Process
Combine the garlic, half the ginger, dark soy, a pinch of chili and 20ml peanut oil. Toss with the scallops and place in the fridge to marinate for an hour or two.
In the meantime whisk together the rice vinegar, dark soy, fish sauce, another pinch of soy and remaining peanut oil and ginger. Set aside and allow to infuse
Remove the scallops from the fridge. Wipe away the excess marinade. Grill the scallops until just cooked.
Toss the rice with chickpeas, reserved dressing and coriander leaves.
Pile it onto 2 plates. Place the scallops around the rice. Top the salad with seaweed strips and serve with lemon or lime wedges.
Eat immediately. Serves 2.

How to Prepare Artichokes

A lot of people (in this country, anyway) are afraid of artichokes because they are uncertain of how to prepare them. And that’s understandable.
I must admit that it’s a lot easier to just open up a tin. It does save a lot of time and mess doing it that way. I often do it myself and that’s absolutely fine. The tinned ones come in an acidic liquid, which invariably alters the flavour. They are fine for salads that way, but not for a lot of other dishes. If you find the taste of tinned artichokes too sour, soak them in plain water for a while.
Fresh artichokes have a distinct green scent and taste, which is evocative of the springtime. I like to choose small artichokes (about the size of an egg), more out of laziness than anything else. The smaller ones haven’t developed the hairy choke and that means the preparation is easier. Make sure the stalks are firm and crisp- definitely not soft and spongy like the artichokes (and most other green vegetables) they sell at the supermarket. Seriously, does anyone really buy dead vegetables, which are on the point of decay?!
Okay, so to prepare artichokes it does require some effort. I’m not going to deny that fact, but once you get the hang of it is a straightforward task.

• You need to prepare some acidulated water. Begin by filling a large bowl (not metallic, it reacts with the artichoke) with cold water. Add the juice of a couple of lemons. Artichokes begin to oxidize and turn black upon cutting, very, very quickly. For this reason it’s also a good idea to work with the cut artichokes as fast as you can manage. Soaking them in acidulated water will help to slow the oxidation process. Have also another large container to hold all the wastage left from preparing the artichoke -it will be substantial.
• Take one artichoke and begin to strip away the leaves. As you do so, you will notice the leaves will go from green, to yellow. The leaves will also become softer, rather than tough and fibrous. Stop removing the leaves, once you reach those supple, blond leaves.
• The next stage is to prepare the stem. The stems themselves are absolutely delicious (they taste like the heart) so don’t cut all of it away -it will depend on how you are cooking them. Using a potato peeler, remove the skin from the base of the flower (where you removed the leaves previously) and from the stalk too. The colour of the stalk will change from vivid green to pale green as you do so. Don’t use your expensive, fancy vegetable peeler for this. The artichoke fibers are tough and will blunt your instrument. Buy a cheap peeler and replace it as need be- you have been warned…
• Trim the top of the artichoke. Cut way about 1/3 from the top of the stripped vegetable. At this stage I place the prepared artichoke into the prepared bowl of water and lemon. Proceed with the rest of the artichokes. Just before cooking you can cut them into halves, quarters etc.
• If the artichokes you’ve selected are large, or you intend to stuff them, then you will need to remove the hairy choke. The easiest way is by using a small spoon.
• Alternatively, and obviously this will only work if you are not stuffing them, you can just roast them whole and get the people to remove the choke at the table. That’s what I usually do. Just don’t forget to tell people.

Discard all the tough leaves and peelings (or use them for the compost). The artichokes are now ready for cooking.

Golden Braised Artichokes and Kipfler Potatoes

Homemade Strawberry Jam

Spicy & Sweet Lamb Drumsticks

It is traditional during Rosh Hashanah (Jewish New Year) to serve foods that are golden and sweet. The gold part is meant to symbolize prosperity. Sweetness represents a pleasant year ahead. There are many other religious points of reference when it comes to food during this time and indeed for Jewish food in general, but that’s about as far as I am willing to go with pious cooking actions.
I’m not Jewish and not particularly religious (though I do study Kabbalah), but I can’t help getting into a celebratory mood and cooking up a feast. In fact I don’t even need a reason. If I want to eat something, I’m going to cook it. And why not? Most people I know celebrate Christmas and Easter. And that includes roast turkeys and chocolate eggs, etc. Yet most of those people don’t go to church or even claim to be Christian. So with that in mind, I don’t feel the need to be Jewish to have to braise lamb shanks for the Jewish New Year either. The fact that it is springtime just makes me want to go on a lamb feast anyway.
This dish is best if you cook it the day ahead (it does take all day to cook). The flavours improve upon standing. Lamb shanks also throw a copious amount of fat during cooking- its much easier to remove the fat, once it has cooled and solidified.
I served these sweet and spicy lamb shanks with saffron rice, chickpeas and sautéed garlicky leafy broccoli- it was one of the best meals I have cooked all year.

Components
4 Lamb shanks
Olive oil or duck fat
1 red onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves
1 red pepper, coarsely chopped
(Remove the skin if you like- I use a potato peeler)
1 dried red chili, finely chopped
1 tsp Spanish sweet paprika
1 tsp Spanish smoked paprika
1-2 pieces cassia bark or cinnamon sticks
1 tsp dried Greek oregano
150ml red wine
400g tin Italian tomatoes
Stock, to cover
Honey, a generous drizzle
Sea salt
Toasted pine nuts

Process
Heat up a spoonful of olive oil or duck fat in pot large enough to hold the lamb shanks. Brown the lamb on all sides and remove to a plate.
Put the onion, garlic and peppers, chili and oregano into the same pot. Lower the heat and cook the aromatics until they have softened- about 15 minutes.
Add the paprikas and cook for a further minute.
Place the shanks back into the pot. Splash in the wine and add the tomatoes too (I don’t bother chopping them). Add enough stock to submerge everything.
Cover the pot and simmer until the meats are tender and almost falling of the bones. It is important to cook everything very, very slowly. And patience is definitely required- mine took about 6 hours to reach the fork- tender stage. It is also a good idea to keep an eye on how the flavours are developing during cooking. You may want to remove the cassia or cinnamon once its reached the right point.
When everything is nice and tender leave it in a cool place until the next day.
When you are ready to serve the following day, scrape away most of the fat (leave some).
Put the pot over a low heat and reheat gradually. This dish needs to be reheated slowly- the meat is dense and takes time to heat through properly.
Once the temperature is right, drizzle over a generous amount of honey to flavour and sweeten the stew. Check for saltiness too.
Sprinkle over with pine nuts and parsley. Serves 4 carnivores.

Barramundi Parcels with Blood Orange and Spices

Incase you haven’t noticed, I have a thing for savory foods combined with sweet, fragrant flavours. This wasn’t always the case though. It has only been in the last couple of years that I’ve developed a taste for savory/sweet combination. I assume our palates are constantly changing. The same way that ours lives evolve, reflecting our mood and personality at the time. Who knows, maybe I have become a sweeter person in general and that’s reflective through my diet.
Anyway, that’s enough of the philosophical banter.
I thought it would be a nice idea to make use of the striking blood oranges that are available right now. The season for the fragrant and scarlet orange is rather fleeting, so I like to make to buy some whenever I see them.
I like to eat them the same way I like to eat tangelos- that is peeled and segmented with a very sharp knife to produce thin wedges, without any of the tough membrane that holds the fruit together. I squeeze over any of the juice from the carcass (which will be quite a bit). I then sweeten with homemade vanilla sugar, and leave them to sit for a few minutes, so all the components merge together. Whilst the blood orange (or tangelo) segments are macerating, I sweeten some crème fraiche with more vanilla sugar. I serve the oranges in huge amounts with some of the crème fraiche to dip each citrus segment, before eating. This combination is divine and I think it leaves strawberries and cream for dead.
This recipe is another excellent way of combining fragrantly sweet with salty. Barramundi is quite a popular fish here in Australia, however it can be on the pricey side. It is delicious though, with a sweet and delicate white flesh and I thought it would go well with blood oranges and spices. If you can find fillets from a small fish, by all means use those. I think they are much nicer, than fillets from a massive fish.
They are baked in a foil parcel and served at the table straight from the oven. There is a certain anticipation and thrill about ripping the parcel open at the table.
River Café London was the inspiration for the following recipe.

Components
2 Barramundi fillets or other white fish
1 Blood orange
A pinch of fennel seeds
A pinch of chili powder
Cinnamon
20g melted cultured butter (unsalted)
20ml vermouth
20ml extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Foil

Process
Preheat the oven to 220c. Squeeze the orange juice. You only need a dash of juice- about 20ml. Remove 2 strips of orange zest and set aside. Crush the fennel seeds and a small piece of cinnamon, until you have a powder. Mix in a small bowl all the ingredients, minus the fish. Pour half of this over the fish fillets and allow it to marinade for a few minutes.
To make the parcels, use a length of foil 5 times the length of the fillet. Fold the foil in half, shiny side out. Place the fillet at one end and pour over half the remaining orange and spice mixture. Top with a strip of orange zest and season with salt and pepper, then fold the foil over the fillet and seal by folding the two ends together, three times, creating a very tight seal. Repeat with the other fish fillet.
Place both parcels on a baking dish. Bake in the preheated oven until both parcels have puffed up to their full capacity.
Serve immediately by placing the unopened parcels on a plate.
This dish goes well with a plate of wilted dark, leafy greens of whatever sort. Serves 2.

Homemade Pasta

Yes, my partner Paul, has managed to teach me the mysterious Italian art of pasta making.
Having attempted this Italian art in times gone by, and failing miserably, I was wary when Paul decided to break me in. Having learnt from his grandmother, Paul decided to pass on the secret to me. And I responded to the challenge!
I was eased into this mysterious art by learning the basic formula:
Italian Tipo 00 flour
Free range eggs at room temperature
100g flour = 1 egg
Sounds simple? Yes. The trick is making it all work together.
Italian Tipo 00 flour is a finely ground flour that is ideal for making pastas. I have tried the Australian Tipo 00 but while it was easier to work the texture, once cooked, wasn’t as good as the Italian flour. (actually, it was horrible- Paul)
I usually use 200g of flour in which I then gently combine 2 eggs. This is done on the bench. As the eggs and flour combine; you start working it eventually kneading the formed dough. This is a very tactile exercise where the feel of the dough is very important. I’ve found the dough should be ever so slightly tacky, just so you can barely feel it sticking to you fingers. Add some flour a little at a time if you feel that the dough is too tacky. You don’t want the dough to be too dry either, as it will become difficult to knead. Keep kneading the dough till it looks and feels completely smooth, “as smooth as babies skin” I’m told….
Once you have reached this point, wrap the dough tightly in cling film and let it rest for 15-20 minutes.
Now the fun starts.
Set up your pasta machine. If you don’t have one I guess you could use the rolling pin (or use the rolling pin on your partner & get them to buy a pasta machine).
Divide the dough into 3 roughly equal portions. Keep 2 of the portions wrapped in cling wrap so they don’t dry out. Press out the portion on a floured bench top. Make sure both sides of the flattened dough are dusted with flour. While the dough was kneaded, the tackiness was important. Tackiness here is the enemy of the pasta machine (trust me or you will be cleaning the insides of the machine). Pass the dough through the largest setting on the machine. Then fold the dough in half. Dust the outsides if it’s feeling tacky, and pass through the machine again. Repeat this 10 (yes 10) times- this is important as it helps work the dough to an ultra smooth consistency.
Now we start winding up the settings, dusting the dough if needed between each pass through the machine. If at some stage you feel the length of the dough is getting unwieldy, cut it in half.
I’ve found from experience that any higher than the 3rd last setting, makes the pasta too thin, leading to it disintegrating rather than being coated in sauce.
Once you have reached this stage, place the rolled out dough on a floured surface & dust with additional flour.
Repeat this with the remaining portions.

Leave the pasta sheets to dry for about 15-20minute. You can trim these sheets & use them for lasagna, or you can pass them through the cutters on the machine making tagliatelle or tagliarini. After each sheet of pasta is cut, wrap the pasta around your hand & then slide it off to form a little nest. Dust the cut pasta with flour & set aside till you are ready to use.

To cook your pasta, have a large pot of salted water boiling (use the biggest pot you have). Test the cooking time with a few strands of pasta. It should only take seconds, a minute at most, to cook, depending on how long you have let it dry. With fresh pasta it’s pretty much, in then straight out. It should be strong enough to be able to be picked up with a fork without breaking. It will be delicate and silky in texture, poles apart from commercial pasta. They are different products and should not be compared.
Drain the cooked pasta & toss with some butter (or oil if need be) before combining with the sauce.
You will find that homemade pasta has a different texture to commercial dry pasta. Once you have tried & mastered the process, you’ll be amazed & addicted. A 2 egg pasta makes enough for 3 decent serves.

Lemon & Lime Pudding

This is another dish which, I think, is lovely during the springtime. The texture is delicate and light, the flavours are pure and intense, making it absolutely beautiful to eat.
It is actually a soufflé but don’t let that put you off from making it. Its not supposed to be a big, puffy number. The recipe contains baking powder, and is baked in a wide dish, rather than the traditional ramekin, making it pretty much foolproof. Made this way the texture remains like chiffon- airy and fragile.
The amount of sugar you use will depend on how acidic your lemons and limes are. I use homemade vanilla sugar, because I have a huge jar of it. It’s fine to use caster sugar too, if that’s what you’ve have available.

Components
10g flour
10g cultured, unsalted butter
125ml milk
50- 100g real vanilla sugar
2 free range eggs, separated
5g baking powder
Enough lemons and limes to make 125ml juice
½ tsp each finely chopped lemon and lime zest

Process
Preheat the oven to 180c. Butter a baking dish. Mine is 26cm by 18cm.
Make a roux with the butter and flour, but do not allow it to brown.
Add the milk and 50g sugar. Cook, stirring all the time it until it has thickened.
Remove it from the heat and allow it to cool a little.
Beat in the egg yolks and baking powder, followed by the citrus juices and zests. Taste the mixture, and add more sugar if you think it needs it (the lemons and limes I used were quiet acidic, I needed close to 100g sugar all up).
Beat the whites until they are white and fluffy.
Fold the egg whites into the lemon/lime mixture.
Pour into the baking dish and bake for 20 minutes, or until just set and lightly golden on top.
Dust with icing sugar and serve with unsweetened cream.
Makes 2 generous serves.

Leek and Potato Soup

I think springtime is a nice time for leek and potato soup.
I had previously made this soup and had some left in the fridge, and the other week when some black truffle was delivered to my door, I couldn’t help crumbling a couple of slices into the reheated soup. It was a superb blend of flavours.
If you want this soup to be truly fantastic, you should use an abundance of leeks. I use an equal quantity of leek and potato. Otherwise, the soup turns out like watery mashed potatoes, and that’s dreadfully boring.
And while we are on the subject of flavour, I use a combination of different potatoes- waxy Desires and King Edwards for flavour, and floury Toolangi Delights for creamy texture. The earthiness of the potato is accentuated by adding a touch of cumin.
Chilled leek and potato soup, otherwise known as Vichyssoise, has never appealed to me. I like this soup hot, but if you prefer it chilled, then please yourself.

Components
500g sliced leek, white part only
1 tsp ground cumin
500g cubed and peeled potatoes
Butter or duck fat
1 brown onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
Stock
Sea salt
Black pepper
Bacon lardons, fried until golden brown
Sour cream
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper

Process.
Begin by making sure your leeks are dirt-free. You may need to rinse them thoroughly.
Heat the butter or duck fat and sweat the leek, onion and garlic over a gentle heat for about 20-30 minutes. It is important that the leek cooks right down, but don’t allow to brown.
Add the cumin and continue to cook for another minute.
Add the potatoes. Cover with stock and simmer for 30 minutes.
Puree the soup- I leave mine a little chunky.
Season with salt and pepper.
Serve with crispy bacon lardons and sour cream. Makes about four serves.

Black Truffle

It’s a very exciting time at the moment for the food lover (for me, anyway!). As we approach the close of winter, I thought it would be a nice idea to write about the most fascinating of all winter foods- the black truffle.

Truffles in Australia have only ever been imported from Europe at Christmas time, and were only available to restaurant chefs, millionaires or the most obsessed gourmands. Farmed truffles from various locations in Australia are now available and this means that (normal) people can buy and enjoy fresh truffles too. Imported black truffles fetch around $5000 per kilo, while Australian black truffles fetch $2000- $3000 per kilo. Okay, still expensive, but cheaper!
I know most people would seriously be thinking that I am an absolutely crazy to spend so much money on a smelly black fungus, but I like to justify my gustatory actions by saying that its not every day that I buy black truffles. It’s a once a year splurge - a “truffle binge” if you like. And a little does go a long way. A 50g truffle (about the size of an egg) is perfect for a two-person truffle feast. If you were a millionaire or a very generous person, you might consider buying truffles to entertain a group of friends. Unfortunately I am neither.
After doing some research (availability, cost) I decided that it would be best to buy directly from the source, Perigord Truffles of Tasmania, rather than buying from the usual gourmet stores. I am so tired of bad service from one particular “gourmet” retailer here in Melbourne that I will only shop there if I absolutely have to.
I contacted Perigord Truffles of Tasmania, and placed my order on a Tuesday evening; it was delivered Thursday morning. The only way it would have been fresher, is if I was growing them myself.
Truffles are weird looking objects, from the outside they are dark brown/black bumpy round shaped. Inside they wonderful visual appeal, similar to the grain inside nutmeg. And the flesh has a unique texture, a bit like crumbly cork. They don’t really taste of much at all (at the most vaguely like a mushroom) but that’s not where the beauty lies.
As most people know or have read, their intoxicating scent is what people fuss about. The scent is weird and wonderful. A combination of fresh yeast and moldy cheese. That’s probably not the best description, but nonetheless I find the aroma inviting and very agreeable. It’s the kind of smell that just says, “Eat me!”
In my opinion, black truffles are best matched with foods that are pale and somewhat neutral in flavour. Think eggs, pasta, potatoes and rice. I have read they go well with chicken and pheasant, but I haven’t tried with these yet (maybe next year).
Here are a few of my tested ideas:

• Make a “risotto bianco” and substitute vermouth for the usual white wine. Add a spoonful of marscapone and finely chopped fresh black truffle to the “mantecatura” at the end along with the usual butter and Parmesan. At the table shave more black truffle all over the risotto. The white of the risotto and the black blanket of truffle slices look quite dramatic.
• A potato salad served at room temperature is a delightful way to showcase the black truffle. Begin by selecting waxy potatoes (I like kiplers or Desires). Peel them if you like. I don’t- potatoes have more flavour with the skins left on. Cut them into delicate cubes and steam them until just tender. For the vinaigrette I like to use a champagne vinegar and extra virgin olive oil (not an intense peppery one). Whisk these two together with sea salt and black pepper. Pour all over the warm potatoes and toss gently. Finely chop some fresh black truffle and add them to the potato as well. Toss again and allow them to come to room temperature. The heat from the potato will help to release the aroma from the truffle, infusing the potatoes throughout. Once cool, shave over more truffle and serve with what you will.
• One of the most glamorous breakfasts on the face of the planet has to be truffled eggs (well we had to use it!). I don’t store my truffle in a container of eggs, as I have often read. I am too afraid that I will just end up with eggs that smell of truffle and a truffle that smells of nothing. Truffles are too precious to take a chance like that. Mike has a fabulous way of doing scrambled eggs. He combines a little fresh cream, excellent eggs, and finely chopped truffle. This is frothed using the steam nozzle on an espresso machine. When almost ready he pours the mixture into a pan with melted butter in it. Cooked lightly just to finish the eggs. End result: extremely light fluffy moist eggs, with freshly shaved truffle. A dish fit for kings (two queens, actually).

So we now come to end of my favourite season, winter. I can’t say that I am excited about summer- its still a few months away but I’m sure I will survive it. Time to get Mike to buy an air conditioner, I think…

Rigatoni with Pinenuts, Raisins, Ricotta & Tomato

Years ago, when I was managing a well-known Melbourne café, I worked with a Aussie-Italian chef. This was one of the more unusual dishes she did for the menu. The chef who was responsible for this dish was of Sicilian descent and apparently the combination of flavours is common over there. Dried fruits, honey, pine nuts and ricotta are characteristic ingredients in Sicilian cuisine, and not just for the desserts! I think in my collection of regional Italian cookery books, I’ve got a recipe for pasta with cocoa and sugar, too.
I wouldn’t usually make a dish like this during winter, but the weather has been so unseasonably warm that I’ve been inspired to look ahead to the coming summer (as much as I dislike the heat). And besides, I love the weird and wonderful combination of the sweet honey and fruits with ricotta, tomato and crunchy pine nuts. I serve this pasta with a simple salad so as to not overwhelm the palate with too many flavours.

Components
200g rigatoni
½ brown onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
Olive oil for sautéing and tossing the pasta
400g tinned Italian tomatoes, crushed
Fresh basil, oregano or parsley
I tablespoon honey
30g pine nuts, lightly browned.
30g raisins (or currants or sultanas)
Freshly grated Pecorino cheese
Ricotta, broken up into chunks
Sea salt
Black pepper

Process
Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil and sauté the onion and garlic until softened (about 10 minutes). Add the tomatoes and chosen herbs. Simmer for 20 minutes or until saucy. You may need to add water if the sauce becomes too thick. Depending on the flavour of the tomatoes, I sometimes add 1 tsp of sugar. Season with salt and pepper.
While the sauce is cooking, bring a pot of salted water to the boil and cook your pasta until al dente.
Combine together the pine nuts, raisins and honey.
Warm the ricotta chunks in the tomato sauce for a few moments.
Toss the pasta with the sauce and ricotta. Stir through the pine nut and raisin mixture (you may like to use more or else). If you have are using fresh basil, toss through some of that too.
Serve straight away with freshly grated Pecorino cheese. Serves 2.

Balsamic Vinegar and Honey Braised Fennel

When, it comes to food, it is all or nothing for me. My palate tends to go for flavours that are completely opposites- those, which are delicate, or those that are rather intense.
The following recipe is one, which definitely falls in the “intense” category. I have made it numerous times during the past winter to serve alongside grilled meats and fish (tonight I am serving it with wagyu steaks).
I love the strong, contrasting flavours. Balsamic vinegar acts as the acidulant. Butter balances the acidity and honey adds sweetness. I like to include chili for a touch of heat. A word of warning: don’t overdo do the chilies. Although the flavours in this dish are intense, they should not obviously be inedible. I have made the error of adding too much chili in the past. A pinch of chili should be sufficient. The final dish should be buttery fennel pieces with a sticky, slightly spicy balsamic reduction.

Components
40g butter
Fennel cut into chunks, total weight 500g
Sea salt
Chili powder
50ml balsamic vinegar
20g honey

Process
Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the fennel pieces and toss in the heated butter. Cook over a gentle heat for 15 minutes or so- just enough to soften and lightly brown the fennel.
Season with salt and a pinch of chili.
Pour in the vinegar and honey (I mix them together beforehand) and cover the pan.
Braise for 15- 30 minutes or until the fennel is dark and well cooked. The vinegar should be somewhat syrupy, but not overly reduced.
Cooking time will depend on the age and size of the fennel bulbs chosen. Serves 2, as an accompaniment to meat or fish.

Dulce de Leche Ice Cream

I cannot imagine an ice cream more satisfying than this one- the frozen combination of crème anglaise and dulce de leche is ecstasy to my fussy taste buds.
Perhaps the reason I love it so much is because it’s a combination of flavours that remind me of my childhood.
My mother used to make rich, yellow custard for me when I was a young boy and to this day it is the most reassuring food that I can think of. If I happen to be distressed, irritated, or simply worn out, a bowl of hot crème anglaise (made with more vanilla and sugar than usual) will miraculously turn me into a nicer person.
Dulce de leche has similar mood enhancing qualities (ask any Latino). Being of Argentine/ Uruguayan descent, I was brought up on the sweet milky caramel, the same way Aussie kids were raised on vegemite (yuk!). My favorite way to eat it- is (rather greedily) from a spoon. I used to get in trouble for doing that when I was a kid. Too bad, Mum.
Some palates may find the flavours in the recipe below too concentrated. I like my ice cream to be intense and pure in flavour. If you prefer your ice cream mild and milky, then double the amount of crème anglaise. I only raise this point because I have been told my ice creams and sorbets, are too much. Please yourself, that is the best part of being a home cook. One does not need to worry about pleasing the general population, like a restaurant chef has to.

Components
1 vanilla pod (optional)
3 egg yolks (free range)
3 tsp caster sugar
300ml milk
300g Dulce de leche (you can use shop bought dulce, if you like)

Process
Mix together the egg yolks, sugar and milk. You need to decide if you are using fresh vanilla- if your dulce is already perfumed with it, obviously, you won’t need it. Cut your vanilla pod lengthways through the center.
Scrape the black, sticky seeds using the point of a knife and add to anglaise mix. Add the pods too.
I make my anglaise directly over a medium/ high heat. If that makes you nervous then do it over a low flame. I honestly don’t have the patience required to stand 20 minutes over a stove, stirring constantly. I like it done quickly. Once it has thickened, pour it through a sieve into a bowl (keep the pods to infuse sugar- there will be plenty of fragrance to do so).
Mix the anglaise and dulce together. Chill it in the fridge before churning in the ice cream machine.

Freeze for a few hours and eat on the same day.
This amount makes enough ice cream to feed two people (greedily)