Black Truffle

It’s a very exciting time at the moment for the food lover (for me, anyway!). As we approach the close of winter, I thought it would be a nice idea to write about the most fascinating of all winter foods- the black truffle.

Truffles in Australia have only ever been imported from Europe at Christmas time, and were only available to restaurant chefs, millionaires or the most obsessed gourmands. Farmed truffles from various locations in Australia are now available and this means that (normal) people can buy and enjoy fresh truffles too. Imported black truffles fetch around $5000 per kilo, while Australian black truffles fetch $2000- $3000 per kilo. Okay, still expensive, but cheaper!
I know most people would seriously be thinking that I am an absolutely crazy to spend so much money on a smelly black fungus, but I like to justify my gustatory actions by saying that its not every day that I buy black truffles. It’s a once a year splurge - a “truffle binge” if you like. And a little does go a long way. A 50g truffle (about the size of an egg) is perfect for a two-person truffle feast. If you were a millionaire or a very generous person, you might consider buying truffles to entertain a group of friends. Unfortunately I am neither.
After doing some research (availability, cost) I decided that it would be best to buy directly from the source, Perigord Truffles of Tasmania, rather than buying from the usual gourmet stores. I am so tired of bad service from one particular “gourmet” retailer here in Melbourne that I will only shop there if I absolutely have to.
I contacted Perigord Truffles of Tasmania, and placed my order on a Tuesday evening; it was delivered Thursday morning. The only way it would have been fresher, is if I was growing them myself.
Truffles are weird looking objects, from the outside they are dark brown/black bumpy round shaped. Inside they wonderful visual appeal, similar to the grain inside nutmeg. And the flesh has a unique texture, a bit like crumbly cork. They don’t really taste of much at all (at the most vaguely like a mushroom) but that’s not where the beauty lies.
As most people know or have read, their intoxicating scent is what people fuss about. The scent is weird and wonderful. A combination of fresh yeast and moldy cheese. That’s probably not the best description, but nonetheless I find the aroma inviting and very agreeable. It’s the kind of smell that just says, “Eat me!”
In my opinion, black truffles are best matched with foods that are pale and somewhat neutral in flavour. Think eggs, pasta, potatoes and rice. I have read they go well with chicken and pheasant, but I haven’t tried with these yet (maybe next year).
Here are a few of my tested ideas:

• Make a “risotto bianco” and substitute vermouth for the usual white wine. Add a spoonful of marscapone and finely chopped fresh black truffle to the “mantecatura” at the end along with the usual butter and Parmesan. At the table shave more black truffle all over the risotto. The white of the risotto and the black blanket of truffle slices look quite dramatic.
• A potato salad served at room temperature is a delightful way to showcase the black truffle. Begin by selecting waxy potatoes (I like kiplers or Desires). Peel them if you like. I don’t- potatoes have more flavour with the skins left on. Cut them into delicate cubes and steam them until just tender. For the vinaigrette I like to use a champagne vinegar and extra virgin olive oil (not an intense peppery one). Whisk these two together with sea salt and black pepper. Pour all over the warm potatoes and toss gently. Finely chop some fresh black truffle and add them to the potato as well. Toss again and allow them to come to room temperature. The heat from the potato will help to release the aroma from the truffle, infusing the potatoes throughout. Once cool, shave over more truffle and serve with what you will.
• One of the most glamorous breakfasts on the face of the planet has to be truffled eggs (well we had to use it!). I don’t store my truffle in a container of eggs, as I have often read. I am too afraid that I will just end up with eggs that smell of truffle and a truffle that smells of nothing. Truffles are too precious to take a chance like that. Mike has a fabulous way of doing scrambled eggs. He combines a little fresh cream, excellent eggs, and finely chopped truffle. This is frothed using the steam nozzle on an espresso machine. When almost ready he pours the mixture into a pan with melted butter in it. Cooked lightly just to finish the eggs. End result: extremely light fluffy moist eggs, with freshly shaved truffle. A dish fit for kings (two queens, actually).

So we now come to end of my favourite season, winter. I can’t say that I am excited about summer- its still a few months away but I’m sure I will survive it. Time to get Mike to buy an air conditioner, I think…