Milanesas

I once read years ago (I don’t remember where, probably some high school history book) that the people of Milan were rather wealthy and apparently liked to show off their prosperity by colouring everything gold. Even their food. I have no idea if the story has any truth behind it, but it sounds good to me.
“A la Milanese” now usually refers to dishes which are gilded or resemble gold. Risotto Milanese is one of the first which comes to my mind. One of its ingredients is saffron, which lends the golden touch. Another form of “a la Milanese” is food which has been coated in breadcrumbs and fried until golden.
So what does this have to do with South American food?
Milanesas, as it is known in Latin America, refers to sliced meat, which is coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and fried in oil until golden. The meat is flavoured with a generous amount of finely chopped garlic and parsley before being crumbed. I’m not totally certain where this particular dish gets it name but there does seem to be a resemblance between Milanesas and the classic term a la Milanese. My sources tell me that Argentina does have the largest population of Italians outside of Italy (thanks Ilva), so perhaps there is a relationship?
While beef is commonly used, chicken is popular too. If using beef, a prime cut like fillet or rump will be appropriate. I like to use thigh fillets when it comes to chicken, although my mother preferred breast fillets. Personal preference, I guess.
In keeping with the South American liking of large serves of meat, milanesas can be quite large (the size of a dinner plate sometimes). I prefer my food in smaller serves, so the milanesas I prepare at home are somewhat modest in size compared to those found traditionally in other peoples homes and restaurants.
My mother always served beef milanesas with carrot puree. Chicken milanesas where served with potato puree. A tomato salad makes a great accompaniment to either.

Components
500g sliced beef or boneless, skinless chicken (free range)
2 eggs, lightly beaten (free range)
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Parsley, finely chopped
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Dried, fine breadcrumbs
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Process
If using beef make sure you have selected slices which are free of sinew and about 5mm thick. Chicken thighs need to be flattened to an even thickness (I use a rolling pin to bash them into shape).
Combine the chosen meat, garlic, parsley, egg, salt and pepper. Allow to marinate for about 15 minutes.
Take each piece of meat, allowing the excess egg to drip back into the bowl.
Dip the meat into a plate of breadcrumbs. Use the heel of your hand to press the breadcrumbs firmly into the meat. Repeat until all the meat is crumbed.
Discard the excess egg. The meat at this stage can be refrigerated.
Shallow fry the milanesas in oil until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper.
Serve warm with lemon wedges, ideal for two people.

Arroz con Pollo

My family ate this dish quite often when I was growing up. Essentially, it is an easier, simplified version of Spanish Paella. Traditional Paella was prepared for festive and larger family celebrations while Arroz con Pollo was kept for weekday dinners. Poor mans Paella cooked by his housewife, as I like to put it
Paella is cooked in a very, large pan outdoors on the fire. It contains a variety of seafood, as well as chicken. Arroz con Pollo, being somewhat uncomplicated, is cooked in a covered saucepan and apart from rice, contains only chicken as its main feature.
My mother used long grain Australian rice, but nowadays I prefer Spanish Calasparra, which is a round, short grain rice. It’s available from Spanish and South American food shops. You can replace with Italian risotto rice, if that’s easier for you.
Good quality, genuine saffron makes an excellent distinction, lending a delicate, but unmistakable floral quality. Although this dish is definitely superior with saffron, it isn’t absolutely essential. My mother often substituted luxurious saffron with inexpensive yellow food dye when money was tight. I don’t see the point of cosmetically enhanced food and I would prefer to leave out all together. Please yourself with whatever option best suits.
Serve this dish with a grated sheep’s cheese (Pecorino), sprinkled over at the table. The assertive, salty flavours of the cheese give a pleasantly pungent edge to the dish.

Components
Olive oil
1 Spanish onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ small red pepper, chopped into small cubes
½ small green pepper, chopped into small cubes
1 small carrot, peeled and cut into small cubes
1 tsp dried greek oregano
Fresh thyme, finely chopped
Fresh parsley, finely chopped
1 very generous pinch of Spanish smoked paprika
1 tsp of Spanish sweet paprika
1 pinch of dried chili powder
Fresh pepper, both black and white
800g chicken pieces (leg and thigh are best)
800- 1000ml chicken stock (fake is fine)
1 very generous pinch saffron threads
200g Calasparra rice
A handful of peas (I use frozen)
Pecorino cheese, to serve

Process
Choose a lidded saucepan that will accommodate the chicken and rice comfortably. Sauté the onion, garlic, peppers, carrot and herbs with the olive oil gently for about 20 minutes or until lightly browned. Add both paprika's and chili and cook for a further minute.
In a separate pan, heat some olive oil and lightly brown the chicken portions. Add the chicken to the saucepan containing the sautéed aromatics. Pour away most of the fat from the pan and deglaze with combined stock and saffron. Add the stock to the chicken and aromatics. Cover the pot and simmer for 20 minutes.
Add the rice, along with salt and pepper. Cover and continue to simmer for another 15 minutes. Add the peas and cook for a further 5 minutes or until the rice is just cooked. Should you find the rice cooked before it has absorbed all the liquid, turn of the heat, cover the pot and allow the dish to sit for 5 minutes or so.
Serve with grated Pecorino cheese.
Serves 2 – 4 people.

Chicken Story 3 - Spices and Chickpea

It being winter in my world also means influenza season is upon us. And unfortunately Mike was violently struck down last week. With the flu that is…

Which means one grumpy gay guy and another bitchy gay guy stuck in an apartment together, all day long. One is grumpy because he is sick; the other is bitchy because the grumpy one is getting on his nerves. And so the bitchy one just gets bitchier and bitchier. Get the picture. It’s a vicious circle. But, they love each other. Immensely.
The bitchy one decides to make a restorative chicken soup in the hope that the grumpy one will get better, and go back to work, leaving the bitchy one in peace. After five long and intense days, during which the bitchy one goes on several solitary shopping expeditions to escape the all prevailing grumpiness, the ailing grumpy one recovers and he returns to the workplace. The bitchy one is convinced the recovery had something to do with his delicious and magical broth. The grumpy one knows better, and pretends to agree. At last, all is well again…

I promise this to be the last installment of “The Chicken Trilogy”. There will be no “Revenge of the Supermarket Chicken”.

Spicy Chicken Broth with Chickpea Dumplings

Ingredients
For the broth:
1 kilo corn fed, free range, organic chicken wings
1 onion, peeled, cut into chunks
1 carrot, peeled, cut into chunks
1 celery stalk, cut into chunks
1 garlic clove, peeled but kept whole
Peppercorns- black and white
Cardamom pods
Cumin seeds
Fresh ginger, cut into slices
Saffron threads, a large pinch
Turmeric
Whole dried red chili
Sea salt
Fresh lime or lemon, juice and zest, finely chopped

For the dumplings:
I small onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
250g minced chicken
100g chickpea flour
All of the spices above

Method
Place all of the ingredient (except your chosen citrus) for the broth into a stockpot. I used about 5 grams of each spice, more or less. Find the balance you like. I also crushed the spices very lightly to release the aromas, with the mortar and pestle.
Cover with cold water. Bring just to the simmer, and cook very slowly for 2- 3 hours. I never boil my stock; I keep the temperature below a simmer. This keeps the stock crystal clear.

Strain when you are happy with the flavour and discard all the solids. You can season the broth with chicken stock cube instead of salt. There is nothing wrong at all with this practice- my grandmother does it, and so do restaurants I have worked in.
In the meantime, you can prepare the dumplings.Sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil gently, for about 15 minutes to soften.

In a bowl mix together with a wooden spoon, the chicken, chickpea flour, the softened onion and garlic.

Add to the mixture, all of the same spices that went into the broth. Use only pinches of each one and make sure they are finely ground. Again find the balance you like. Season well with salt.

Roll them into small meatballs.

Poach them in simmering water for 15- 20 minutes or until cooked through. Drain them using a slotted spoon.
To serve: place the hot meatballs into a soup bowl, however many you like. Top with the boiling chicken broth. Sprinkle the citrus zest over each bowl and add a squeeze of the juice too. Delicious. Makes about 4 –6 serves.

Chicken Story 2 - A Sinister Stew

My recipe today is based on the classic French dish- Coq au Vin.
However, I shall refrain from calling it such out of respect for tradition. My adaptation deviates from the genuine formula on a few essential qualities. I have chosen to name mine: The Sinister Stew, after a divine inspiration from the late Jennifer Paterson, of “The Two Fat Ladies” fame.
My version is not made with a “coq”, which is French for rooster. I use the superb chicken of which I am currently obsessed (see my previous post). I am assuming roosters are unobtainable in this country, although I have never asked. You could use pieces of wild rabbit leg. I have a feeling their taste may be comparable.
Nor do I use the proper “vin”. The true recipe originates from Burgundy. Therefore one should use a wine from this region in France. I have utilized Australian Pinot Noir. Use whatever wine is appropriate to your country and personal taste. When I come to think of it, this dish may be good done with rosé wine. Pink meat with pink wine sounds good to me.
To thicken the stew, the blood is drained from the coq and added to the stew. I find this creepy practice too vampire-esque for my liking. Instead I take lead from acclaimed French chef Paul Bocuse, and use a puree of chicken livers to thicken and enrich the stew. Do not skip this step. It makes a considerable difference to the end result, both for flavour and texture.
I have been cooking this dish since I was a teenager. It appealed to me then, just as much as it appeals to me now, 20 years later. I read recently in the current issue of an Australian food magazine that this particular dish has come back into style after an extended hiatus. Really? I think this is nonsensical. Does anyone really care for food trends? I certainly don’t. The only trends I care for are ones to do with beauty and fashion. When it comes to food, the only thing, which matters to me, is how it tastes. A sinister stew, but a classical one.

Ingredients
1 kilo corn fed, free range, organic chicken (use thigh and leg, skin removed and cut into smaller pieces)
750ml Pinot Noir
Bay leaves, parsley and thyme
Flour, for dusting
100g pancetta, cut into 1 cm cubes
1 tbsp duck fat
1 red onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
50g chicken livers, cleaned
50ml cognac (I use brandy)
Fresh black pepper
10 pickling onions, blanched for 5 minutes in boiling water and peeled
50g unsalted cultured butter
1-2 tsp brown sugar
10 small shitake mushrooms (or use swiss browns)

Method
Firstly, you need to marinate the chicken pieces for 24 hours. Simmer the entire bottle of red wine for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat. Add the bay leaf, thyme and parsley stalks. Allow the herbs to infuse the wine, and cool. Pour the cooled marinade over the chicken pieces. I use a plastic container or a glass bowl. Refrigerate for 24 hours.
Select a braising pan that will be able to accommodate all of the above ingredients. Over a low heat, fry the pieces of pancetta with the duck fat for 10 minutes or until lightly golden. Add the finely chopped onion and garlic and continue to cook for another 10- 15 minutes until they too have gilded.
In the meantime, remove the chicken pieces from their wine and herb bath. The chicken pieces will be stained a dark shade of burgundy. Pat the pieces dry, dust the lightly with flour. Strain the marinade and reserve. Discard the herbs.
Remove the pancetta, onion and garlic to a small plate, and set aside. There should still be some fat left in the pan, if not add more duck fat. Seal the chicken and livers on a higher heat, about 1 minute each side or until lightly golden. Remove the livers once they are golden. Puree the liver with the reserved marinade in a food processor or blender.

In a separate pan, begin to caramelize the pickling onions in the butter. Do this slowly; it is vital the butter does not burn. The process should take about 30 minutes. When the onions are tender, add 1 tsp of sugar (towards the end). Set the caramelized onions and their golden fat aside. You can do this step earlier if it saves you hassle or stress.
In a tiny saucepan, gently heat the cognac or brandy. Set it alight and pour the flames over the chicken pieces. Return the reserved pancetta and onion mix to the chicken and brandy. Pour over the liver and wine mixture. Add more bay and thyme. Put in the mushrooms too. Season with pepper. Simmer gently until the chicken is tender, and beginning to fall of the bone. Towards the end, add the pickling onions and all their fat. It may seem like an excessive amount of fat to add to a dish, but it balances the acidity from the wine. Add more sugar if you think it needs it. The end result should be succulent chicken pieces in a dark and rather ominous looking sauce. Do not be deceived by the sinister appearance; the aromas and flavors are divine. Sprinkle with parsley to brighten the dish.

I don’t serve this dish with anything but crusty bread. I find the flavours too dominant and complex to go with anything else (even potato puree). Serve with the same wine, as used in the braise. Serves 4.

Chicken Story 1 - Wild Chook Run

Up until last week, there was no sympathy in my kitchen for the provision we humans know as “chicken”. It was prohibited from my table. Why, you may ask? Because it is unexciting, ordinary and I am appalled by the manner it is reared for commercial consumption. And as a young boy, I ate the fore mentioned fowl too many times. Boring! Yuk! Gross!
Yet, I often read in the work of well-known English food writers, of how lovely the bird is to roast and eat. I have attempted it. Who hasn’t? Is there anyone in this world who hasn’t roasted a chicken? My roast chickens have always been edible but of bland flavour and disappointing texture. I suppose they are okay, but never extraordinary as described by Nigella Lawson, Simon Hopkinson and Nigel Slater. My attempts have not been worth writing about. According to the culinary grapevine one must chose his bird wisely- corn fed, free range or organic. So, being an interested gourmet, I decided to go on a wild goose, I mean chicken, chase…

On a particular shopping trip to the supermarket, I discovered a raw and packaged chicken labeled “corn fed”. Golden, and at a weight of 1.2 kilos, it was a perfect feast for two. It appeared authentic. Into the shopping basket it went, to be roasted that evening. Whilst I waited in line to pay for my selected items, I became bored (as one does in queues). As I reached for the nearest issue of “Gourmet Traveler” magazine, I become aware of a listing of ingredients on the avian creature. It read, upon other things- 89% chicken. Now, I am not a mathematical genius but what was the other 11% (132 grams of foreign matter, to be precise)? Maybe it was yellow food dye? Or perhaps the bird was diseased, and it was hepatitis vaccination fluid? That would explain the yellow colouring. At that moment I became rather alarmed and ran, in a state of terror back to the chicken section, to dispose of the jaundiced beast.

Since the supermarket incident I have experimented with free-range specimens and organic varieties. All have been okay, but nothing to write about. I was beginning to think that maybe English chickens are more genetically advanced than their Australian cousins. Until my discovery last week, that is. There is a stall at Prahran Market in Melbourne, which specializes in game birds. I mentioned previously of those qualities, which are thought to promise a superior bird- corn fed, free range or organic. Now until this time I had never come across a chicken, which was all three. This particular stall happens to trade poultry which possess all three attributes, and what a splendid surprise these chickens are. It is difficult to express their taste in words. Simply, the pale flesh is sweet and rich, with a firm but tender, luscious texture. This bird is so very delicious.

Spatchcock and roast the fine hen at a high temperature, smothered with an enormous amount of excellent butter. Add to the butter, lemon- both juice and zest. Include small amounts of garlic, tarragon and thyme, too. Serve the glorious bird with the natural “jus gras” from the baking pan and of course, the essential roasted vegetables. Carrots, fennel, mushrooms, pickling onions, King Edward potatoes, cherry tomatoes and turnips all work well. This is truly a feast for the gods. At last the ban has been lifted.

Roast Tarragon Chicken

You are probably aware by now the foods I cook are (almost) always seasonal. And every summer I like to cook the classic French style roasted tarragon chicken. Chicken and tarragon are a marriage made in heaven, and there are many versions. This one is my own.
Please use a well-bred chicken- either organic, free range, or corn fed. Or all three, if you are truly obsessed. I know they cost a bit more, but these superior birds are worth the price. I cannot bear to eat supermarket chicken anymore. I call these disadvantaged birds “concentration camp chickens” Just the idea terrifies me. These birds are kept in prison like conditions, injected with bizzare chemicals and even end up psychotic (apparently). How appetizing!
There is a noticeable difference between the maladjusted battery beast and those fine birds which have been properly reared for the table. Not only in the flavour but also in the texture of the flesh and fat. Even the bones and shape of the carcass are sightly different.
As always I spatchcock my chicken, so it cooks evenly and quickly.

Ingredients
1.2 kilo chicken (mine was organic)
2 tbsp of tarragon vinegar
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp finely chopped French tarragon
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
50g butter (cultured and unsalted)
300ml cream (35% milk fat)
50 ml white wine

Method
Cut away the backbone from your chicken, using kitchen scissors. If you are using a well-bred bird, you may notice the bones are stronger, than those birds which are bred in inhumane conditions. Lay the bird out like a book, and using your hands apply pressure, so to flatten the carcass.
Combine the vinegar, oil, 1 tbsp of tarragon, salt and pepper. Pour over the bird and massage into the skin. Allow to marinate for about 1 hour at room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 230c.
Dot the bird with butter. Place the bird breast side down in a roasting dish. Add a small glass of water to the pan. Cook for about 30 minutes or until golden brown, basting from time to time. Turn the bird over and continue to roast for another 15 minutes, or until the breast has browned. Remove the bird to a plate, cover and allow to rest.
In the meantime, deglaze the baking pan with white wine. Add the cream and reduce rapidly until you have achieved a sauce like consistency. Add the remaining tarragon and check for seasoning.
Serve the creamy and fragrant sauce with the chicken.
I like to serve the chicken with roast potatoes and roast garlic, which I have very coarsely smashed and dressed with extra virgin olive oil and chopped parsley.
A 1.2 kilo bird will serve 2-3 people.

Korean Chicken and Corn Soup

You have all heard of Jewish penicillin, this is the Korean version.

My dear friend Danniel Ahn taught me to make this restorative and very tasty broth a few years ago. It was very good back then after partying, helping to fortify our vacant minds, fragile bodies and depleted souls. Of course I am older and wiser these days (so too is Danniel) and I prefer have this soup when I am of poor health, rather than when suffering from self inflicated fatigue, Lindsay Lohan style.

The following recipe is just a guideline. I did not really bother to measure anything because honestly, I am not feeling well. I have used a lot of garlic and ginger because of their health restoring properties. If you are making this purely for culinary reasons, then you probably will not want as much, so adjust accordingly. But I need as much fortification as I can get right now…

Ingredients
1 whole organic chicken
1 large onion, unpeeled and halved
1 large carrot, unpeeled and cut into chunks
1 large piece of ginger, sliced
1 whole head of garlic, unpeeled and sliced in half horizontally
1 tbsp of black peppercorns (optional)
The stalks from a bunch of coriander (optional)
Stock powder
Fish sauce, to taste
Cornflour, to thicken
400g can creamy corn
400g can corn kernels, drained and rinsed
3 eggs, free range
Sliced spring onion (optional)
Asian herbs (optional)
Sesame oil (optional)

Method
Wash the chicken to remove any surface impurities.
Place into a large stockpot with the onion, carrot, ginger, garlic, peppercorns and coriander stalks. Cover with water and bring to a simmer slowly. Do not boil.
Cook until the chicken is tender. Remove the chicken to a plate and be careful to not burn yourself removing the chicken from the pot, like I did.
Allow the chicken to cool a bit, then remove all the meat from the carcass. Reserve the meat.
Throw the bones and skin back into the stock and continue to simmer.
This entire process will take about 3 hours, or until you have a well flavoured stock. Strain, and discard all the veggies and bones.
Now, add the two types of corn to the stock, some stock powder to boost the chicken flavour, and plenty of fish sauce to season. Use the fish sauce in place of salt. I used about 150ml, which is nothing compared to the amount Danniel used. He would use the whole bottle!
Thicken with some cornflour, by mixing an amount of cornflour in a small bowl with a bit of stock and then pouring it back into the saucepan and bringing to a simmer.
Cook for about 15-20 minutes to remove the raw flavour of the fish sauce.
Add the shredded chicken meat and heat through.
Beat the eggs lightly in a small bowl.
Turn of the heat and stirring the pot slowly, drop in the egg, so it forms long threads on contact with the hot soup.
Serve in deep bowls, sprinkled with some sesame oil, spring onions and herbs if you wish. Makes approximately 6 large servings.

40 Cloves?

I was afraid to cook this dish for a long time. The idea of cooking a dish with 40 cloves of garlic sounds rather vulgar. But in reality, it is actually quite nice. When cooked properly, the garlic is gentle and not at all invasive or smelly for that matter. The reason I decided to do this dish was because I was experimenting with spring garlic, which is available right now. This garlic is fantastic. It is moist, plump and extremely tender. The bulbs that I purchased had not developed their papery inner skin, so you can eat each clove whole. The skins just seem to melt away. It has a stronger than usual fragrance, but the flavour is quite mild, once cooked. I really enjoyed this and I will definitely make it again.

Chicken Saute with 40 cloves of Garlic

Ingredients
3 tbsp olive oil
2 kilo chicken drumsticks (organic)
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
40 cloves garlic, unpeeled (spring garlic if you can get it)
Fresh thyme
125ml stock ( I used fresh vegetable stock. Careful with using fake stock here. The juices are reduced at the end and fake stock may be too salty)
125ml white wine

Method
Heat the oil in a pan large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer. You can also do this in 2 pans simultaneously (adjust the amount of oil)
Add the drumsticks to the pan and brown on one side for 5 minutes.
Turn the pieces over and do the other side. Season the chicken as you do this.
Now turn down the heat to medium and throw in the garlic cloves.
Continue to cook for another 10 minutes, turning the chicken over and shaking the pan, so everything cooks evenly.
Add the thyme, stock and wine. Turn the heat to low, cover the pan (or pans) and cook for another 15 minutes
Remove the chicken and garlic to a serving dish, reduce the juices in the pan and pour over.

Serves 4 people. I served this with a Russian salad, tossed with a mustard vinaigrette rather than the usual mayonnaise. The combination worked really well.

Chicken & Prawn Salad

The following salad is an idea I borrowed from the late Elizabeth David. It is a perfect dish to have on balmy evenings with good, crusty bread. The addition of prawns and horseradish take this chicken salad to another dimension. The only ingredients I bothered to measure, are the main ones. That is equal quantities of chicken, prawns, mushrooms and potatoes-200g of each for 2 people. Being the purist that I am (in the kitchen, that is), I prepared all the cooked ingredients myself. I am sure you could do it with shop cooked chicken and deli marinated mushrooms. I wouldn’t by cooked prawns though- that’s a bit scary. And while on the subject of scary things, I would not use commercially prepared mayonnaise either. Make your own if you can. The homemade stuff is worlds away from the sweetened glue that is passed of as mayonnaise. But I will leave that up to you. I do realise most people would not be inclined.

Ingredients
Cooked chicken
Mushrooms, cooked or raw as you prefer
Cooked baby potatoes
Cos lettuce
Cooked prawns
Fresh parsley leaves
Extra virgin olive oil
Lemon juice
Salt
Fresh black pepper
Mayonnaise
Horseradish (I used jarred)

Method
Tear the chicken into chunks.
Put them into a bowl with the mushrooms, potatoes, and prawns.
Drizzle over some olive oil and seasoning. Cover and leave.
In the meantime take some mayonnaise (2 heaped tablespoons for 2 people ), and flavour with some horseradish. Thin it out with a bit of water to give it a pouring consistency. Spoon into a small serving dish and reserve.
When you are ready to eat toss the chicken and etcetera with the cos, parsley and lemon juice. If you add too much lemon, just correct it by adding more oil.
Serve on flat plates and drizzle with the horseradish dressing at the table, as you wish.

Chicken ala Queen

The original title of this dish is “Chicken ala King”. I discovered this dish as a teenager in a Womens Weekly French cookbook. Back then, this was my idea of posh. And I used to cook it all the time. However I wondered about its origin. I have never come across it in a French cookbook. Perhaps it was Australian. Maybe it was a Bernard King recipe? After doing a google search, I found many recipes. Mainly American and mostly revolting-containing canned soup, cooked chicken breast and thickened with cornflour. I think you get the idea…Over the years I have tweaked with the recipe and refined it a bit. And what is better than a king? Well, a queen of course. So here I present the new and improved version, “Chicken ala Queen”.

Ingredients
1 tbsp oil
½ white onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove
500g boneless chicken thighs (free range)
1 red pepper
150 g shimeji mushroom (available from supermarkets)
300ml thickened cream
1 egg yolk
Salt and fresh pepper

Method
Over a low heat, cook the onion and the garlic for a few minutes. Do not allow to colour.
Cut the thighs into chunks and add them to the pan. Cover the pot and braise them over a gentle heat.
Whilst your chicken is cooking, peel the pepper. This is easily done with a peeler, much the same way you would peel a potato. Cut the pepper into 3cm squares.
After the chicken has cooked for ten minutes, add to the pot the peppers and the mushrooms and continue to braise (lid on) for 10 more minutes.
Your chicken should be cooked now. Add the cream and season to taste. Allow to simmer gently for a couple of minutes and then turn of the heat.
Beat the yolk in a small bowl and add a bit of the creamy sauce to the egg-2 or 3 tablespoons.
Tip the yolk mixture back into the pot, stirring. Be careful not to curdle the sauce. I wait about a minute after turning the heat off. I have been impatient in the past and messed up the sauce. If you do too, don’t worry too much. It will still taste good but the sauce will be a bit lumpy from the egg. Its not the end of the world and you will be smarter for it next time.
I serve this in bowls with buttered long grain rice.
Note- Shimeji mushrooms (pictutred above) have a mild but tasty peppery flavour. Substitute with any other white delicate mushroom

Chicken with Chilli Cumin & Lime

I prepared this simple but delicious marinade for roast chicken the other day. I know what you are thinking -another chicken recipe! But you see I purchased a twin pack (at a bargain price) for my chicken soup and so I was left over with one other. And you know what they say "waste not, want not". I was being economical…. I spactcocked the chicken , rubbed over the marinade and left it for 36 hours. Then roasted until done. I served with the pan juices and wedges of lime to squeeze over. Roast carrots and peas with olive oil completed the meal. I must say, my partner and I devoured this bird.

Chilli and Cumin Marinade for Roast chicken

Ingredients
1 tsp cumin powder
1 tsp Spanish paprika
1 tsp mustard powder
1 dried chilli
1 garlic clove, finely grated.
Fresh black pepper
Fresh white pepper
Pinch of rock salt
2-3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Method
Mix all the ingredients in a small bowl.
Rub all over the spatchcocked bird and leave to marinade for as long as you like in the fridge.
Just a note on spatchcocking- its easy enough to do. Just remove the backbone(I use scissors) and flatten out the bird by applying pressure with your hands. You may here some bones cracking(I love this sound) Chicken prepared this way has the advantage of cooking more evenly and somehow remains more juicy and succulent .Roast breast side down for 30 min at 200c. Check every now and then, that the bottom of the tray isn’t drying out and burning. Add some water to prevent this. Turn the bird over and finish cooking breast side up for another 30 mins. Turn the oven to maximum for the last 10 minutes. Cooking time is based on a 1kg bird, perfect for 2 people.
I must say, spatchcocking is the only way I have ever roasted chicken, even as a young boy. I honestly don’t ever remember cooking it in the conventional fashion. And why would you want to. It is too good this way.

Grandma's Chicken Soup

After lasts night disaster I wasn’t in the mood for error today. In need of comfort and ease I decided chicken soup was the way to go. Originally I was going to cook the Jewish version I make these days (I am obsessed with all things Jewish), but then I started thinking about my grandmothers chicken soup. It was light but flavorsome, fragrant with oregano and fortified with rice, potato, peas and the chicken meat. So I telephoned my grandmother to ask her what she put in it, exactly. Only a whole chicken, peppercorns, rice and potato! And apparently she removes the chicken, mixes with homemade mayonnaise and serves this as another meal. ”Are you sure that’s all?” I asked (after all it has been 30 years). “That’s all “she replied. How disappointed was I?! Maybe I am right about my memories being better than the actual foods and that these things should remain in the past. Or perhaps my grandmother has forgotten after all this time (god bless her). But who am I to argue with her. If that how she did, that’s how its done! I must have had a wild culinary imagination as a child (maybe the food wasn’t good, so I had to pretend). So here it is, as I remember it (not as it was) and I dedicate it to my grandmother wholeheartedly.

Ingredients
1 whole chicken, about 1 kilo (I didn’t use corn fed or free range, there weren’t any)
200g onion, peeled
1 tsp white peppercorns
1 fresh bayleaf, crumbled to release the fragrance
1 tsp dried oregano
1 bunch parsley stalks
3 chicken stockcubes or to taste
1 pinch dried oregano, extra
Black pepper from the grinder
1 potato, peeled and cut into 1cm cubes (I use the red waxy variety)
150g cooked long grain rice
100g frozen peas
Freshly chopped parsley
Extra virgin olive oil

Method
Place the chicken, onion, peppercorns, bayleaf, oregano, parsley and the stockcubes into a large pot.
Cover with water and simmer for 1 hour very, very gently over a low heat.
Remove the chicken from the stock. Using forks, pull away the meat from the bones and remove the skin.
Return the bones (and the skin if you wish) to the pot and continue to simmer for a further 2 hours.
Strain the stock through some chux and a sieve into a clean saucepan.
Bring back to a simmer. Taste the stock. Reduce the stock until it is full flavoured (watery chicken soup is revolting).
Whilst this is happening, remove the fat and any impurities as they rise to the surface.
Finish with the extra pinch of oregano and some fresh black pepper.
In the meantime, finely shred the chicken. - just use your hands.
Now bring the soup to the boil, add the potato and cook for about 5 minutes, until the potato is tender.
Add the peas and chicken.
Turn off the heat and add the parsley.
Place about 1 heaped tablespoon of rice into each soup plate and ladle over the soup.
Finish with some extra virgin olive oil and more fresh pepper.
Just lovely.

Paprika & Yoghurt Chicken

In my quest of lighter healthier meals, I came up with this idea of a marinade. I know that there is nothing original about chicken marinated in yoghurt and roasted at a high temperature, Tandoori style. But I have never eaten Tandoori, so its original to me.This marinade is truly addictive and excellent as a dip for dread. Once I have made it, I have to put it away from view, on top of the fridge otherwise I will eat it all well before dinner is served. Out of sight, out of mind I say…..And just a quick note on quantities- I never measure out ingredients for marinades but this is a rough guide. Adjust it to suit your taste.

Ingredients
1 cup sheeps milk yoghurt
1 tiny clove of garlic, very finely chopped
1 tsp Spanish paprika
1 tsp cumin1 tsp dried thyme
1 tbsp fresh coriander, finely chopped
1 tbsp fresh parsley,finely choppedA splash of extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper from the grinder
1 kilo free range chicken drumsticks

Method
In a small bowl, combine all the above ingredients except the chicken.
In a much larger bowl, add half the marinade to the chicken. I use my hands to make sure the chicken is well covered.
Leave to marinate for as long as you like. Keep in mind however, longer periods of marinating will require refridgeration. And remember to that meat is better when roasted at room temperature. I leave my meats a good hour out of the fridge before I roast them.
Reserve the other half of the marinade to serve as a sauce with the dinner (or another time, if you wish. I would imagine this would be good with lamb)
Roast your chicken drumsticks at 220c until bronze and crispy, turning over halfway. When the pan appears to be drying out, add a splash of water.
I served this with cubes of crisp roast potato and sweet potato and finished with rosemary. A lovely mid week dinner with not too much effort.