Ossobuco braised with Tomatoes and White Wine

Traditionally, ossobuco is braised without tomatoes. If one is cooking ossobuco with tomatoes then it is incorrect to call it “Ossobuco alla Milanese” So for this reason I have refrained from naming today’s recipe as such.
This is the first time I have actually cooked my ossobuco with tomato. I usually do mine “in bianco” , that is, without tomato. I wanted to try it because it seems to be the most popular way to do it here in Australia. I did enjoy it this way, but I do prefer the traditional Milanese way - braised simply with dry white wine and finished with gremolata. It’s a more elegant approach to a delicate meat like veal. Tomato seems to mask its delicate flavour.
I also did as most Aussie restaurants do and served my tomato braised ossobuco with Risotto alla Milanese (saffron risotto). I think that was a mistake to do so. The two simply clashed! Tomatoes are just too assertive a flavour to complement the perfumed fragrance of saffron. Pureed potato or soft polenta would have been a better match. Oh well, live and learn!

Ingredients
1 kg veal ossobuco
½ tsp mustard powder
1 tbsp flour
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra
1 red onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tbsp finely chopped parsley
1 tsp finely chopped thyme
1 tsp finely chopped rosemary
250ml white wine
400g tin Italian tomatoes, chopped
Zest from 1 lemon, in large strips
A few pinches of freshly grated nutmeg
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper

For the gremolata
Finely chopped lemon zest, garlic and parsley

Method
In a small bowl, mix together the mustard and flour. Use this flour to lightly coat the pieces of ossobuco. You may need more or less flour, depending on the size of the meat.
In a wide and deep saucepan, sauté the onion, garlic, parsley, thyme and rosemary for 15 minutes or until the onion has softened. Remove the onion to a small plate.
Add a touch more oil to the pan and turn the heat to high. Add the ossobuco to the pan in a single layer and cook for 1 minute each side, just enough to seal and lightly colour the meat. Remove the meat to a plate.
Throw the wine into the pan and deglaze, stirring and scraping to dissolve any caramelization on the base of the pan. Add the strips of lemon zest and the chopped tomatoes.
Return the meat and onion to the saucepan.
Add water (or stock), to barely cover the meat. Bring the stew to a simmer and cover the pan with a lid. Allow to simmer for 1 to 2 hours or until the meat is very tender. If you can be bothered, remove the strips of lemon zest. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.
For the gremolata: Chop the lemon zest, garlic and parsley to a very fine powder. I use more parsley than lemon, and garlic the least. But compose your gremolata to suit youself. It should be prepared just before using, as parsley loses its fragrance within minutes.
Sprinkle over the ossobuco.
Enough for 2 or 3 serves.

Just Zucchini

Zucchini was on my “hate to eat list” for many years. I blame my mother for this. Imagine taking a large quantity of zucchini and sautéing them with the usual aromatics (onion, garlic, herbs). Now continue to cook and then some more. About one hour in total. And stir, as you cook all the life out of them. And do not be gentle when you stir- break up the zucchini as you go along. Cook it until it turns into a murky sludge. Now add tomato paste and flour. Yes flour. Just to make it even more stodgy. And cook again. The contents of the pot are beginning to look like the insides of a dead cat. Delicious! Now you can add beaten eggs and processed cheese. I am salivating right now. And just when you thought you could not do anything more to zucchini, pour the whole lot into a baking dish and into the oven. The final dish will look like vomit on a plate. I have no idea where she got this recipe from, but I think my grandmother made it too. It was revolting and I remember being forced to eat it. Mum, if you are reading this and you still make this, you need to stop before it too late…

Zucchini with Gremolata

Ingredients
500 g zucchini, sliced 5mm thick
2 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
3 tbsp of finely chopped parsley
Zest of half a lemon, finely chopped
I garlic clove, finely chopped

Method
Heat the oil in a wide pan, over a moderate heat.
Add the sliced zucchini and stir them about to cover in the oil. Season well.
Put the lid on and allow them to sweat and cook gently for about 20 minutes. Stir them gently every 5 minutes, so everything cooks evenly.
After 20 minutes or so they should be bright green and just tender.
Turn of the heat, add the remaining ingredients and cover for a minute for the aromas to fuse together.
Serve warm or cold. This goes well with fish. Serves 2 –4 people as a side dish.

Braised Veal with Gremolata

In total contrast to yesterday, this dish requires time, but not much effort. I do enjoy preparing food that has taken a while. Somehow I find it more satisfying than a dish that is ready in 10 minutes. Even though the meat here requires time, that does not mean it requires you. Once in the oven it takes care of itself and you are free to do as you wish. Also it will not matter much if you leave it for longer. The meat here cooks at such a slow pace that there is little danger of it drying out. Gremolata is a mixture of finely chopped parsley, lemon zest and garlic. It is traditionally served with osso buco, either stirred into the sauce at the last minute or sprinkled over the finished dish.

Ingredients
500g diced milk fed veal
1 tbsp of red wine vinegar
1 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil
1 head spring garlic, separated into cloves (about 6 cloves)
1 tbsp of salt preserved capers, rinsed
1 tbsp of chopped parsley
Fresh black pepper

For the gremolata
2 tbsp of finely chopped parsley (at the last minute)
Zest of 1 lemon, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped

Method
Set the oven to 120c.
Combine all the ingredients (except gremolata) in an oven proof dish with a lid.
Clamp on the lid, place in the oven and cook slowly for about 3-4 hours. The veal will braise in its own juices and will be very tender.
Remove the garlic cloves and discard.
Combine the ingredients for the gremolata and add half to the veal.
Put the lid back on for a minute, just so that the flavours fuse together.
Sprinkle more gremolata over the dish and serve with steamed green beans and the juices from the pot.

Serves 2.

Note- you may change the proportions of the ingredients for the gremolata, to suit your palate.