Homemade Pasta

Yes, my partner Paul, has managed to teach me the mysterious Italian art of pasta making.
Having attempted this Italian art in times gone by, and failing miserably, I was wary when Paul decided to break me in. Having learnt from his grandmother, Paul decided to pass on the secret to me. And I responded to the challenge!
I was eased into this mysterious art by learning the basic formula:
Italian Tipo 00 flour
Free range eggs at room temperature
100g flour = 1 egg
Sounds simple? Yes. The trick is making it all work together.
Italian Tipo 00 flour is a finely ground flour that is ideal for making pastas. I have tried the Australian Tipo 00 but while it was easier to work the texture, once cooked, wasn’t as good as the Italian flour. (actually, it was horrible- Paul)
I usually use 200g of flour in which I then gently combine 2 eggs. This is done on the bench. As the eggs and flour combine; you start working it eventually kneading the formed dough. This is a very tactile exercise where the feel of the dough is very important. I’ve found the dough should be ever so slightly tacky, just so you can barely feel it sticking to you fingers. Add some flour a little at a time if you feel that the dough is too tacky. You don’t want the dough to be too dry either, as it will become difficult to knead. Keep kneading the dough till it looks and feels completely smooth, “as smooth as babies skin” I’m told….
Once you have reached this point, wrap the dough tightly in cling film and let it rest for 15-20 minutes.
Now the fun starts.
Set up your pasta machine. If you don’t have one I guess you could use the rolling pin (or use the rolling pin on your partner & get them to buy a pasta machine).
Divide the dough into 3 roughly equal portions. Keep 2 of the portions wrapped in cling wrap so they don’t dry out. Press out the portion on a floured bench top. Make sure both sides of the flattened dough are dusted with flour. While the dough was kneaded, the tackiness was important. Tackiness here is the enemy of the pasta machine (trust me or you will be cleaning the insides of the machine). Pass the dough through the largest setting on the machine. Then fold the dough in half. Dust the outsides if it’s feeling tacky, and pass through the machine again. Repeat this 10 (yes 10) times- this is important as it helps work the dough to an ultra smooth consistency.
Now we start winding up the settings, dusting the dough if needed between each pass through the machine. If at some stage you feel the length of the dough is getting unwieldy, cut it in half.
I’ve found from experience that any higher than the 3rd last setting, makes the pasta too thin, leading to it disintegrating rather than being coated in sauce.
Once you have reached this stage, place the rolled out dough on a floured surface & dust with additional flour.
Repeat this with the remaining portions.

Leave the pasta sheets to dry for about 15-20minute. You can trim these sheets & use them for lasagna, or you can pass them through the cutters on the machine making tagliatelle or tagliarini. After each sheet of pasta is cut, wrap the pasta around your hand & then slide it off to form a little nest. Dust the cut pasta with flour & set aside till you are ready to use.

To cook your pasta, have a large pot of salted water boiling (use the biggest pot you have). Test the cooking time with a few strands of pasta. It should only take seconds, a minute at most, to cook, depending on how long you have let it dry. With fresh pasta it’s pretty much, in then straight out. It should be strong enough to be able to be picked up with a fork without breaking. It will be delicate and silky in texture, poles apart from commercial pasta. They are different products and should not be compared.
Drain the cooked pasta & toss with some butter (or oil if need be) before combining with the sauce.
You will find that homemade pasta has a different texture to commercial dry pasta. Once you have tried & mastered the process, you’ll be amazed & addicted. A 2 egg pasta makes enough for 3 decent serves.

Lemon & Lime Pudding

This is another dish which, I think, is lovely during the springtime. The texture is delicate and light, the flavours are pure and intense, making it absolutely beautiful to eat.
It is actually a soufflé but don’t let that put you off from making it. Its not supposed to be a big, puffy number. The recipe contains baking powder, and is baked in a wide dish, rather than the traditional ramekin, making it pretty much foolproof. Made this way the texture remains like chiffon- airy and fragile.
The amount of sugar you use will depend on how acidic your lemons and limes are. I use homemade vanilla sugar, because I have a huge jar of it. It’s fine to use caster sugar too, if that’s what you’ve have available.

Components
10g flour
10g cultured, unsalted butter
125ml milk
50- 100g real vanilla sugar
2 free range eggs, separated
5g baking powder
Enough lemons and limes to make 125ml juice
½ tsp each finely chopped lemon and lime zest

Process
Preheat the oven to 180c. Butter a baking dish. Mine is 26cm by 18cm.
Make a roux with the butter and flour, but do not allow it to brown.
Add the milk and 50g sugar. Cook, stirring all the time it until it has thickened.
Remove it from the heat and allow it to cool a little.
Beat in the egg yolks and baking powder, followed by the citrus juices and zests. Taste the mixture, and add more sugar if you think it needs it (the lemons and limes I used were quiet acidic, I needed close to 100g sugar all up).
Beat the whites until they are white and fluffy.
Fold the egg whites into the lemon/lime mixture.
Pour into the baking dish and bake for 20 minutes, or until just set and lightly golden on top.
Dust with icing sugar and serve with unsweetened cream.
Makes 2 generous serves.

Leek and Potato Soup

I think springtime is a nice time for leek and potato soup.
I had previously made this soup and had some left in the fridge, and the other week when some black truffle was delivered to my door, I couldn’t help crumbling a couple of slices into the reheated soup. It was a superb blend of flavours.
If you want this soup to be truly fantastic, you should use an abundance of leeks. I use an equal quantity of leek and potato. Otherwise, the soup turns out like watery mashed potatoes, and that’s dreadfully boring.
And while we are on the subject of flavour, I use a combination of different potatoes- waxy Desires and King Edwards for flavour, and floury Toolangi Delights for creamy texture. The earthiness of the potato is accentuated by adding a touch of cumin.
Chilled leek and potato soup, otherwise known as Vichyssoise, has never appealed to me. I like this soup hot, but if you prefer it chilled, then please yourself.

Components
500g sliced leek, white part only
1 tsp ground cumin
500g cubed and peeled potatoes
Butter or duck fat
1 brown onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
Stock
Sea salt
Black pepper
Bacon lardons, fried until golden brown
Sour cream
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper

Process.
Begin by making sure your leeks are dirt-free. You may need to rinse them thoroughly.
Heat the butter or duck fat and sweat the leek, onion and garlic over a gentle heat for about 20-30 minutes. It is important that the leek cooks right down, but don’t allow to brown.
Add the cumin and continue to cook for another minute.
Add the potatoes. Cover with stock and simmer for 30 minutes.
Puree the soup- I leave mine a little chunky.
Season with salt and pepper.
Serve with crispy bacon lardons and sour cream. Makes about four serves.

Black Truffle

It’s a very exciting time at the moment for the food lover (for me, anyway!). As we approach the close of winter, I thought it would be a nice idea to write about the most fascinating of all winter foods- the black truffle.

Truffles in Australia have only ever been imported from Europe at Christmas time, and were only available to restaurant chefs, millionaires or the most obsessed gourmands. Farmed truffles from various locations in Australia are now available and this means that (normal) people can buy and enjoy fresh truffles too. Imported black truffles fetch around $5000 per kilo, while Australian black truffles fetch $2000- $3000 per kilo. Okay, still expensive, but cheaper!
I know most people would seriously be thinking that I am an absolutely crazy to spend so much money on a smelly black fungus, but I like to justify my gustatory actions by saying that its not every day that I buy black truffles. It’s a once a year splurge - a “truffle binge” if you like. And a little does go a long way. A 50g truffle (about the size of an egg) is perfect for a two-person truffle feast. If you were a millionaire or a very generous person, you might consider buying truffles to entertain a group of friends. Unfortunately I am neither.
After doing some research (availability, cost) I decided that it would be best to buy directly from the source, Perigord Truffles of Tasmania, rather than buying from the usual gourmet stores. I am so tired of bad service from one particular “gourmet” retailer here in Melbourne that I will only shop there if I absolutely have to.
I contacted Perigord Truffles of Tasmania, and placed my order on a Tuesday evening; it was delivered Thursday morning. The only way it would have been fresher, is if I was growing them myself.
Truffles are weird looking objects, from the outside they are dark brown/black bumpy round shaped. Inside they wonderful visual appeal, similar to the grain inside nutmeg. And the flesh has a unique texture, a bit like crumbly cork. They don’t really taste of much at all (at the most vaguely like a mushroom) but that’s not where the beauty lies.
As most people know or have read, their intoxicating scent is what people fuss about. The scent is weird and wonderful. A combination of fresh yeast and moldy cheese. That’s probably not the best description, but nonetheless I find the aroma inviting and very agreeable. It’s the kind of smell that just says, “Eat me!”
In my opinion, black truffles are best matched with foods that are pale and somewhat neutral in flavour. Think eggs, pasta, potatoes and rice. I have read they go well with chicken and pheasant, but I haven’t tried with these yet (maybe next year).
Here are a few of my tested ideas:

• Make a “risotto bianco” and substitute vermouth for the usual white wine. Add a spoonful of marscapone and finely chopped fresh black truffle to the “mantecatura” at the end along with the usual butter and Parmesan. At the table shave more black truffle all over the risotto. The white of the risotto and the black blanket of truffle slices look quite dramatic.
• A potato salad served at room temperature is a delightful way to showcase the black truffle. Begin by selecting waxy potatoes (I like kiplers or Desires). Peel them if you like. I don’t- potatoes have more flavour with the skins left on. Cut them into delicate cubes and steam them until just tender. For the vinaigrette I like to use a champagne vinegar and extra virgin olive oil (not an intense peppery one). Whisk these two together with sea salt and black pepper. Pour all over the warm potatoes and toss gently. Finely chop some fresh black truffle and add them to the potato as well. Toss again and allow them to come to room temperature. The heat from the potato will help to release the aroma from the truffle, infusing the potatoes throughout. Once cool, shave over more truffle and serve with what you will.
• One of the most glamorous breakfasts on the face of the planet has to be truffled eggs (well we had to use it!). I don’t store my truffle in a container of eggs, as I have often read. I am too afraid that I will just end up with eggs that smell of truffle and a truffle that smells of nothing. Truffles are too precious to take a chance like that. Mike has a fabulous way of doing scrambled eggs. He combines a little fresh cream, excellent eggs, and finely chopped truffle. This is frothed using the steam nozzle on an espresso machine. When almost ready he pours the mixture into a pan with melted butter in it. Cooked lightly just to finish the eggs. End result: extremely light fluffy moist eggs, with freshly shaved truffle. A dish fit for kings (two queens, actually).

So we now come to end of my favourite season, winter. I can’t say that I am excited about summer- its still a few months away but I’m sure I will survive it. Time to get Mike to buy an air conditioner, I think…

Rigatoni with Pinenuts, Raisins, Ricotta & Tomato

Years ago, when I was managing a well-known Melbourne café, I worked with a Aussie-Italian chef. This was one of the more unusual dishes she did for the menu. The chef who was responsible for this dish was of Sicilian descent and apparently the combination of flavours is common over there. Dried fruits, honey, pine nuts and ricotta are characteristic ingredients in Sicilian cuisine, and not just for the desserts! I think in my collection of regional Italian cookery books, I’ve got a recipe for pasta with cocoa and sugar, too.
I wouldn’t usually make a dish like this during winter, but the weather has been so unseasonably warm that I’ve been inspired to look ahead to the coming summer (as much as I dislike the heat). And besides, I love the weird and wonderful combination of the sweet honey and fruits with ricotta, tomato and crunchy pine nuts. I serve this pasta with a simple salad so as to not overwhelm the palate with too many flavours.

Components
200g rigatoni
½ brown onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
Olive oil for sautéing and tossing the pasta
400g tinned Italian tomatoes, crushed
Fresh basil, oregano or parsley
I tablespoon honey
30g pine nuts, lightly browned.
30g raisins (or currants or sultanas)
Freshly grated Pecorino cheese
Ricotta, broken up into chunks
Sea salt
Black pepper

Process
Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil and sauté the onion and garlic until softened (about 10 minutes). Add the tomatoes and chosen herbs. Simmer for 20 minutes or until saucy. You may need to add water if the sauce becomes too thick. Depending on the flavour of the tomatoes, I sometimes add 1 tsp of sugar. Season with salt and pepper.
While the sauce is cooking, bring a pot of salted water to the boil and cook your pasta until al dente.
Combine together the pine nuts, raisins and honey.
Warm the ricotta chunks in the tomato sauce for a few moments.
Toss the pasta with the sauce and ricotta. Stir through the pine nut and raisin mixture (you may like to use more or else). If you have are using fresh basil, toss through some of that too.
Serve straight away with freshly grated Pecorino cheese. Serves 2.

Balsamic Vinegar and Honey Braised Fennel

When, it comes to food, it is all or nothing for me. My palate tends to go for flavours that are completely opposites- those, which are delicate, or those that are rather intense.
The following recipe is one, which definitely falls in the “intense” category. I have made it numerous times during the past winter to serve alongside grilled meats and fish (tonight I am serving it with wagyu steaks).
I love the strong, contrasting flavours. Balsamic vinegar acts as the acidulant. Butter balances the acidity and honey adds sweetness. I like to include chili for a touch of heat. A word of warning: don’t overdo do the chilies. Although the flavours in this dish are intense, they should not obviously be inedible. I have made the error of adding too much chili in the past. A pinch of chili should be sufficient. The final dish should be buttery fennel pieces with a sticky, slightly spicy balsamic reduction.

Components
40g butter
Fennel cut into chunks, total weight 500g
Sea salt
Chili powder
50ml balsamic vinegar
20g honey

Process
Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the fennel pieces and toss in the heated butter. Cook over a gentle heat for 15 minutes or so- just enough to soften and lightly brown the fennel.
Season with salt and a pinch of chili.
Pour in the vinegar and honey (I mix them together beforehand) and cover the pan.
Braise for 15- 30 minutes or until the fennel is dark and well cooked. The vinegar should be somewhat syrupy, but not overly reduced.
Cooking time will depend on the age and size of the fennel bulbs chosen. Serves 2, as an accompaniment to meat or fish.

Dulce de Leche Ice Cream

I cannot imagine an ice cream more satisfying than this one- the frozen combination of crème anglaise and dulce de leche is ecstasy to my fussy taste buds.
Perhaps the reason I love it so much is because it’s a combination of flavours that remind me of my childhood.
My mother used to make rich, yellow custard for me when I was a young boy and to this day it is the most reassuring food that I can think of. If I happen to be distressed, irritated, or simply worn out, a bowl of hot crème anglaise (made with more vanilla and sugar than usual) will miraculously turn me into a nicer person.
Dulce de leche has similar mood enhancing qualities (ask any Latino). Being of Argentine/ Uruguayan descent, I was brought up on the sweet milky caramel, the same way Aussie kids were raised on vegemite (yuk!). My favorite way to eat it- is (rather greedily) from a spoon. I used to get in trouble for doing that when I was a kid. Too bad, Mum.
Some palates may find the flavours in the recipe below too concentrated. I like my ice cream to be intense and pure in flavour. If you prefer your ice cream mild and milky, then double the amount of crème anglaise. I only raise this point because I have been told my ice creams and sorbets, are too much. Please yourself, that is the best part of being a home cook. One does not need to worry about pleasing the general population, like a restaurant chef has to.

Components
1 vanilla pod (optional)
3 egg yolks (free range)
3 tsp caster sugar
300ml milk
300g Dulce de leche (you can use shop bought dulce, if you like)

Process
Mix together the egg yolks, sugar and milk. You need to decide if you are using fresh vanilla- if your dulce is already perfumed with it, obviously, you won’t need it. Cut your vanilla pod lengthways through the center.
Scrape the black, sticky seeds using the point of a knife and add to anglaise mix. Add the pods too.
I make my anglaise directly over a medium/ high heat. If that makes you nervous then do it over a low flame. I honestly don’t have the patience required to stand 20 minutes over a stove, stirring constantly. I like it done quickly. Once it has thickened, pour it through a sieve into a bowl (keep the pods to infuse sugar- there will be plenty of fragrance to do so).
Mix the anglaise and dulce together. Chill it in the fridge before churning in the ice cream machine.

Freeze for a few hours and eat on the same day.
This amount makes enough ice cream to feed two people (greedily)