Roasted Quail with Red Wine, Sage and Thyme

As soon as the weather turns remotely autumnal, I go nuts and start cooking everything with red wine. And by “autumnal” I mean anything under 30c. By the time March comes around I have had enough of summer (well actually, I had enough back in December) and I cant wait to start cooking with the flavours of autumn and the approaching winter.
You could do this dish with squab pigeons, just increase the cooking times. Make sure to keep the meat pink and juicy.

Ingredients
4 quail
30 ml extra virgin olive oil
10ml red wine
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
1 tsp chopped sage
Fresh black + white peppers
Sea salt
600 ml rich, dark quail stock (or other stock)
300ml red wine. extra
2 tsp sugar or to taste
1 tsp of tomato paste or a splash of tomato puree (optional)
10g butter

Method
Cut away the backbone from the quails. Reserve the backbones for future stock.
Lay out the birds, as shown in the photograph, and apply pressure to the breast with your hand to flatten out. Cut away the wing at the first joint.
In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, red wine (10ml), herbs and peppers.
Rub all over the quail. Leave to marinate, either, in the fridge for a long time or for a short time at room temperature.
In the meantime reduce the stock and the extra red wine (and tomato, if using) to a glaze consistency. Add sugar to balance the acid levels. Set aside.
Preheat your oven to the highest setting. Place the quail, breast side down in a baking dish and season with salt. Roast for 6 minutes. Turn them over, so they are breast side up. Season the breasts with a pinch of salt, and roast for a further 2 minutes.
The quail will be perfectly tender and moist after this time. Don’t expect them to have browned. 8 minutes in the oven is not enough time to color them.
Allow the quail to rest while you get on with the sauce.
Bring the sauce back to the boil, and add the butter, emulsifying it into the reduction. Serve the quail with the red wine reduction and a plate of roast vegetables.
4 quail will serve 2 people.

Marinated Fishy Things

I love anchovy fillets but sometimes I find the flavour can be a bit flat. My trick to overcome this problem is to marinate them with aromatic herbs and spices. To me, these salty fish morsels are best served on a piece of fresh bread, as a snack. Or before dinner, as an antipasto or hors d'oeuvre.

Marinated Anchovies

Ingredients
150g jar anchovy fillets in oil
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 dried red chili
1 garlic clove, crushed and peeled
Zest of 1 lemon, julienned
Freshly chopped parsley
Extra virgin olive oil (peppery)

Method
Drain the anchovy fillets of their cheap and nasty oil. Using a mortar and pestle, crush the coriander seeds to release their flavour. You should get a waft of a warm and spicy orange scent as you do this. Snip the chili into tiny pieces (I use a pair of scissors). Place your drained anchovy fillets into a container. Sprinkle over the coriander, chili, the whole garlic clove, lemon zest and parsley. Pour over the extra virgin olive oil, to completely submerge. Leave for the flavours to infuse (at least 24 hours). I also remove the garlic, to avoid a strong odour. A squeeze of fresh lemon juice at the last moment would make a welcome addition. Store in the fridge, in a covered container.

The Perfect White Loaf

Homemade bread, along with ice cream, pasta and ricotta is one of life’s simple pleasures. Because most people buy bread, they have little or no idea how the product was created and therefore bread making is usually shrouded in mystery. But making bread (like pasta) is a simple operation, usually only involving mixing, kneading, proving and baking.
I remember the first time I made bread. I think it was 2001. I was bored and I had all the ingredients needed in the cupboard. And I was angry. Very angry. You see, I had just been dumped by a certain ex-lover (we are great friends now though). So I decided to make some bread. And I pretended that this soft piece of dough in front of me was my ex-lovers head! I bashed and smashed the floury mixture into the kitchen bench, venting all my frustrations into the dough. It was a wonderful relief to pretend I was inflicting serious pain into the bastard’s stupid mug… The result was a beautiful loaf of white bread. It was round and golden, with a perfect texture and better tasting than any bread I had bought at a shop. I still remember cutting that first warm slice, drenching it with butter and tasting. I was most proud of my humble creation. I guess at a time when I was feeling pathetic, this triumphant loaf gave me a feeling of competence. I made bread everyday for two weeks and then once a week for twelve months. It made me feel good and I was hooked. Yes, it was like Xanax in the kitchen.
I learnt to make bread from Nigella Lawsons book “How to be a Domestic Goddess”. This recipe is based on hers, with a few minor changes. I always use soft and fine Tipo 00 flour or plain flour. I have made bread only once with bread flour and I preferred the softer option. I know “serious” bakers are probably rolling their eyes reading this but I like the suppleness and pliability that this type of flour produces in homemade bread. I also use whey instead of water. Mainly because I always have some hanging around, after making ricotta. It provides the dough with a touch of sourness and I can pretend I have made sourdough.

Ingredients
530g Tipo 00 flour (or plain flour), plus extra for kneading and dusting
7g dry yeast (1 packet in Australia)
10g sea salt
300ml whey or water
15ml extra virgin olive oil

Method
Put the flour and salt in a bowl.
Warm the whey ever so slightly, I do this in the microwave, then sprinkle in the yeast. Leave for a few minutes to dissolve. Add the olive oil to the whey and yeast mixture.
Pour into the flour and mix together to form a messy dough. I use a wooden spoon to draw the flour and liquid together.
Pour the dough onto the kitchen bench and begin to knead until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.
Place the dough into an oiled bowl (and oil the dough as well). Cover with cling film and leave for 1 hour to prove and rise. The dough should double in size.
Preheat your oven to the highest setting. It should be 230c or higher.
Punch down the dough and knead it for 1 minute. Place it onto an appropriate baking sheet. I don’t oil the sheet, but I do provide a sprinkling of flour.
Allow the bread to rise again for 30 minutes.
Just before putting into the oven, dust all over with flour. You are now ready to bake (or roast depending on your definitions).
As every oven is different, you will need to check. In my oven, it takes 20 minutes all up. It is cooked when the outside has formed a golden brown crust and the bread makes a hollow sound when knocked on the underside.
Allow to cool on a rack. I have read you are not supposed to eat bread that has not cooled from its initial baking, but I cannot help cutting of a slice and drenching it with butter. It is delicious!

Kangaroo Fillet with Basil oil and Caramelized Onion

This recipe is a lesson, more than anything, in how to cook perfect rare kangaroo. Most game is lean, and a long cooking time will result in dry, tough meat. The exception to this rule is game that is braised in a moist environment. But that is a completely different technique and I will deal with that at a later date.
Game that is cooked fast will result in meat that is tender, juicy and full of flavour. The important rules to remember:

• Keep the heat very high to seal the meat and brown it quickly.
  
• The meat will benefit from a long rest, after the initial searing. The result is meat that has a relaxed texture and an even distribution of juices.
  
• Salt the meat after the cooking is complete. I only apply this rule to game meat. Beef, pork etc, I usually salt just before cooking.
  

There are 3 components to this dish (or 4 if you also include the beetroot salad). It is certainly not a hard dish, but it is time consuming because of the long time required to caramelize the onions. They can, of course, be prepared in advance. However, the basil oil I would not prepare any earlier than required. You want to preserve as much fragrance and freshness as possible

Ingredients
Basil oil-
15g basil
1 green chilli (long and mild), deseeded
Sea salt
Black pepper
Pinch sugar
Extra virgin olive oil (mild)

Caramelized Onion-
2 large red onions
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
4 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
1 tsp cumin
2 tsp sugar

500g kangaroo fillets
Extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper

Method

Basil oil-
Grind the basil leaves and green chilli in a mortar and pestle to a paste. Add enough oil to create a fluid condiment. Season with salt, pepper and sugar. Set aside.

Caramelized Onion-
Slice the onions 1cm thick. Place them in a wide saucepan with the olive oil, anchovy and cumin. Patience is required here (but not much effort). Over the lowest heat cook the onions for 1 hour, until soft and reduced. Cover the pan, so the onions sweat and braise in their own sweet juices. After 45 minutes add the sugar. During the process, stir from time to time and make sure the onions do not burn by adding small amounts of water. Keep warm.

Bring the kangaroo to room temperature. Rub the fillets with olive oil. Heat a pan over a very high heat. Sear the fillets for 1 minute each side. Wrap in a double layer of foil and leave to rest on a wooden board.
After 20 minutes, unwrap the kangaroo. Sear again over a high heat for 1 minute each side, to complete the cooking. The meat will be rare. Slice the meat. Arrange on a platter and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle over the basil oil and serve with the caramelized onion. Serves 2.

Note- I also serve a Beetroot and Horseradish salad. And by this I mean canned baby beetroots, drained, rinsed and sliced tossed with extra virgin olive oil and horseradish from a jar. I know this sounds lazy, but it works with all the other components. You can of course cook your own beets and use freshly grated horseradish.

Spiced Prawns with Coriander and Lemon

I have done this particular dish a few times now. I like it to eat this for dinner, after the gym. I am always ravenous after my workout and I like this because it takes minutes to cook (literally), when I get home. I prepare everything in advance, so all that is left to do is fry the prawns. That means, cleaning the prawns and seasoning the flour prior to leaving for the gym. For top efficiency, I even cook the rice beforehand, and have it waiting in the rice cooker.
I know deep fried prawns may seem a bit weird with an oil based dressing (and after the gym, but that’s another story). However, the brief cooking time means the prawns don’t really absorb that much oil, and the acidity from the lemon will cut through any remaining oil. And I don’t bother to serve any vegetables. I honestly cannot be bothered after all that weight lifting!

Ingredients
25g flour
25g cornflour
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp chili powder
Fresh black pepper
Fresh white pepper
A pinch of sea salt
1 kilo of large prawns, shells removed (my favorite is the Banana prawn)
30ml mild extra virgin olive oil
10ml fish sauce
Juice from half a lemon, or to taste
1 tsp very finely ground lemon zest
A big handful coriander, finely chopped
Oil for deep frying (peanut is the best)
White rice, to accompany
Lemon wedges, to garnish

Method
Combine the flour, cornflour, cumin, chilli powder, salt and two peppers. I use a whisk to remove any small lumps of cornflour.
Mix together the olive oil, fish sauce and lemon zest. I add the lemon juice and the coriander at the last minute to the dressing. I find the flavour of these ingredients changes rapidly upon standing, but do as you wish.
Toss the prawns in the seasoned flour, to coat.
Heat enough oil in a wok, to deep fry the prawns. When the oil is hot, fry the prawns until cooked in batches. They should only take 1 minute. I probably don’t need to tell you this, but you know when they are ready, because they turn pink.
Drain the prawns on kitchen paper, to remove excess oil.
Drizzle over with the prepared lemon dressing and serve immediately, with extra lemon wedges.
Under normal circumstances this amount of prawns would probably serve four people. However after lifting weights at the gym, it will only serve two.

Glazed Borlotti Beans

When I cook with borlotti, I most often use imported, canned Italian beans. I hardly use dried beans. I think they are a nuisance, with the 24hrs of soaking and the long cooking time required. My cooking tends to be spontaneous, and I don’t usually know what I will be cooking until the day comes. So, for this reason the tinned version is far more convenient, and I usually have a few tins in my cupboard ready to go.
However, fresh borlotti are in season right now and take no time to prepare. So naturally I am enjoying cooking with the fresh ingredient. Here is one such dish, I made a few days ago. I must admit, it is a rather posh preparation for a humble ingredient, but simple if you already have the chicken stock on hand. You will need a rich French style chicken stock for this dish.

Ingredients
500g fresh borlotti beans (1 kilo unshelled)
300 ml rich chicken stock
30g butter
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Rocket, to garnish

Method
Steam the beans over boiling water for 20 minutes.
Now combine them in a saucepan with the stock, and cook gently for another 20 minutes. The stock will reduce to a shiny glaze.
Add the butter and season with pepper, and salt if it needs it.
Garnish with the rocket leaves as you please.
These beans are good with roast fish. Serves 2-3 people.

La Ribollita Estiva

I have written of this famous Tuscan soup in the past. Traditionally this thick winter soup is made with cavolo nero, beans and sturdy Tuscan bread. It is reboiled the following day, hence the name, “La Ribollita”. Ribollire translates to reboil from Italian to English.
Cavolo Nero or black cabbage is an assertive green leafed vegetable only found during winter. As it is clearly not winter in my part of the world, I have taken liberty to substitute cavolo nero with silverbeet, which incidentally is in season. The bunch I had was the greenest and freshest I have ever seen. It is such a pleasure to cook with fine produce.
I honestly don’t know what a Tuscan may think of my Ribollita Estiva, but I thought it was rather good, so without further due, here is the recipe.

Ingredients
1 large red onion, finely chopped
1 large carrot, chopped
1 or 2 celery stalks, chopped
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 bunch silverbeet, soaked to remove any dirt
2 x 400g cans Italian borlotti beans, drained and rinsed
400g can Italian tomatoes, chopped
30g tomato paste (concentrated tomato puree)
Chicken stock (fake is fine)
Herbs-basil, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage
200g crustless Tuscan style bread, torn into small pieces
Sea salt
Fresh black pepper

Method
As for most soups, sauces and stews, I begin by cooking the onion, carrot, celery and the chosen herbs with the olive oil, very slowly. I do this for about 30 minutes or until the onion begins to caramelize. This is one area in my life where I have patience. I know the time invested in slow cooking the base of vegetables will reward in plenty of flavour, to the finished dish. In Italian and Spanish cuisine this stage is known as “sofrito”.
In the meantime, shred the silverbeet leaves, and chop the stalks into cubes (about 1cm).
Add the silverbeet to the browned vegetables and toss about for a few minutes. Add the canned tomatoes, tomato paste and enough chicken stock to submerge everything. Simmer for 45 minutes.
Add the beans and simmer for another 15 minutes. Leave the soup to rest in the fridge, until the following day.
When you are ready to eat, bring the soup to the boil, then adjust to a simmer.
I use the hand blender to puree a little of the soup, thus thickening it slightly and fusing the flavours together.
Add the bread, and break it up into the soup, using a wooden spoon. The bread will thicken the soup. Simmer for 15 minutes. Adjust with more stock or bread, to suit your desired texture. I like a medium thickness, but I have seen some very thick soups in Italian books.

Season with salt and pepper. Serve drizzled with threads of peppery extra virgin olive oil and more freshly chopped herbs. Plenty for 4 people.
Note-Try to find a Tuscan style bread for this soup. The traditional bread of Toscana, contains little or no salt. But of course any good, sturdy bread will do.