Greens & Beans

I love the combination of pulses and assertive green leaves, as the Italians like to cook. Today it is Borlotti beans and Silverbeet. But any combination will work-chickpeas and spinach, cannellini and cavolo nero and so on. So feel free to swap around the bean/leaves combo. The secret to this dish is the long, slow cooking of the onion. It really adds depth and sweetness, and when combined with butter really brings out a beautiful quality, to otherwise boring silverbeet. Serve this alongside almost any type of meat. I would just be as happy to eat this on its own. It really is that delicious.

Braised Silverbeet & Borlotti Beans

Ingredients
1 bunch of silverbeet
20g butter (I always use unsalted. I detest the flavour of salted butter)
1 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil
1 red onion, finely chopped
I garlic clove, finely chopped
400g can of Italian borlotti beans ( I am sorry to say, but Australians do not do well in the canned vegetable department)
Salt
Fresh black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil, extra
Lemon (optional)

Method
You need to prepare the silverbeet first. Silverbeet usually comes in ridiculously large bunches-there is good reason for this. There is a lot of wastage.
Discard any withered or discoloured leaves. Also cut away all the stalk, all the way up the leaf.
Discard the stalks or keep them for soup (they are delicious baked with butter and Parmesan cheese, too)
Soak the leaves in a sinkful of coldwater to remove any dirt.
Slice the leaves thinly.
In a wide pan, cook the onion, butter and oil very slowly for 30 minutes. The onion will cook down considerably, and begin to caramelize.
Add the silverbeet, season and cover the pan. Braise it gently for 15 minutes. The leaves will wilt down considerably, as well.
Add the drained and rinsed beans 5 minutes before the end of cooking time.
Drizzle with more olive oil off the heat and spritz with lemon juice if so desired.

In my house this serves 2 (we devour this dish), but I would imagine this could serve 4, as a side dish.

Bloody Beef!

Do not be alarmed. The title above is not an attempt at being butch (by use of colloquial language). My beef is bloody, simply because it is bloody and rare, and because it contains blood orange in the dressing. The method of cooking steak this way comes from the famous food writer Nigella Lawson. And she is spot on with this-this really is the best way to prepare perfectly rare meat. As much as I give praise to her for this, I must mention that the idea and flavours are mine. Serve this on warm nights with jasmine rice to which you have added a star anise and a bowl of whole vine tomatoes to consume as you wish. Note- Blood oranges are seasonal and are available during Spring.

Porterhouse with Citrus and Vietnamese Mint

Ingredients
For the marinade:
½ tsp cardomom
1 dried chilli, crushed
½ tsp cinnamom
½ tsp cumin
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tsp finely chopped ginger
Fresh black pepper
1 tsp fish sauce
1 tsp oyster sauce
1 tsp dark soy sauce
3 tbsp vegetable oil
For the dressing:
½ blood orange, juiced
½ blood orange, zest finely julienned
1 lime, juiced
½ lime, zest finely julienned
Salt
Fresh black pepper
About 10 vietnamese mint leaves
About 10 mint leaves
A generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
500g of Porterhouse steak

Method
Combine all the marinade ingredients in a large bowl.
Add the steaks to the marinade. Make sure the marinade coats the entire surface of the steaks.
Cover the bowl and leave to marinate for a long time in the fridge or for a short time at room temperature. The meat needs to be at room temperature to cook.
Heat a pan over a high heat.
When it is very hot, remove the excess marinade from the meat and sear the meat for 2 minutes each side. The meat should brown nicely. The pan will smoke a bit, it is a good idea to turn the exhaust fan on.
Now take the steaks and wrap them in 2 layers of foil, sealing them well. Place this aluminium parcel on wooden board and leave it to rest for 20 minutes. It is important that the meat should rest on a wooden surface, as wood holds heat.
In the meantime, prepare the dressing ingredients-do this at the last minute, as I have mentioned before, the flavours of citrus begin to change quickly.
Unwrap the meat and slice it thinly.
Combine with the dressing ingredients and any juices from the meat.
Arrange the meat on a platter and serve immediately. This will serve 2 people on high protein diets (now that’s butch).

Potato Gnocchi with Spinach & Gruyere sauce

There are two ways of preparing Gnocchi. One way with potato, flour and egg. The second way, with potato and a touch of flour. I cannot decide which I prefer. I like them both. So today I will post the egg enriched version, and the other method, sometime in the future. This recipe is pretty much foolproof - You do not need to worry about delicate handling, like the eggless version and the final result is still light and fluffy. This is like eating little clouds of potato (how poetic). Use Desiree potatoes for best results. The following recipe is my grandmothers.

Potato Gnocchi

Ingredients
1 kilo Desiree potatoes
150 g flour
2 eggs (organic and free range)
1 egg yolk
1 tsp salt
Fresh white pepper
Fresh black pepper
About 1 Tbsp of freshly grated Parmesan cheese
A generous scraping of nutmeg

Method
Cut the potatoes into halves, or quarters (if they are large) and steam them over boiling water. They will be tender in about 20 minutes. Steaming the potatoes will preserve their natural flavour. Boiling the potato will result in bland sogginess.
When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, tear away the skins. Push the potatoes through the fine disk of the mouli. (I must mention here that I would be an unhappy person without my mouli. I know they are old fashioned, but I find the result better than using a masher. Even for other purees I almost always prefer the mouli, over the food processor. It is much easier to clean too).
Add the flour to the potato puree and mix with a wooden spoon until combined.
Mix the eggs in a smaller bowl.
Add the egg gradually to the potato.
Add the remaining ingredients and give it a final mix. The mixture will resemble choux pastry, but not as stiff. It helps if somebody else holds the bowl down, as you mix.
Cover the bowl and set aside.
When you are ready to poach the gnocchi, bring a large saucepan of water to the boil.
Add a generous amount of salt.
There are two ways of assembling the gnocchi:

1. Take two long handled teaspoons (sorbet spoons). Using one spoon take a teaspoon of the mixture and with the other spoon, slide it in the simmering water.
   


2. Fill a piping bag with the mixture and as you squeeze the bag over the water, cut the gnocchi with scissors so it falls gently into the simmering water.
   

Continue forming the gnocchi into the saucepan. Do not over fill the pot (you will need to do this in batches. Keep them warm in a low oven, as you poach the rest). Make sure the water remains at a constant simmer, rather than a fast boil. The gnocchi are delicate and will break if the water boils too hard. Serve the gnocchi with a sauce .
Enough for 4 people.
Note-Prepare the mixture on the day you need it. The mixture will turn a murky grey colour on standing.

Spinach and gruyere sauce

Ingredients

2 tbsp olive oil
30g butter
2 cloves garlic, chopped
250g baby spinach leaves
250ml organic cream
Fresh black pepper
40g gruyere cheese, grated
100g bacon, finely chopped
Extra virgin olive oil

Method
Melt the butter over a low heat, with the oil and garlic. Cook this gently for 2 minutes. Do not allow the garlic to colour.
Add the spinach leaves, turn up the heat to high, and cook the leaves turning them over constantly. The spinach is ready as soon as the leaves have wilted. Don’t over cook the spinach-You want retain the fresh flavour and a vivid green colour.
Add the cream and let it bubble for a few seconds.
Puree the lot, using a hand blender or a food processor.
Pour back into the saucepan and leave it for a moment.
Saute the bacon, with a touch of oil, until crispy.
Add this to the spinach puree.
Add the gruyere.
Heat gently, melting the cheese into the sauce.
Finish with pepper.
Spoon over the gnocchi and drizzle over a touch of extra virgin olive oil.

I must say this sauce is lovelier than the usual tomato sauce often served with gnocchi.

Puy Lentils with Ginger & Tomato

I often cook lentils as a side dish. But not any ordinary lentil. My preference is for the Puy lentil. This variety is originally from France and was only available imported years ago (at a crazy price. Lentils are peasant food after all!). I buy mine loose from the markets. They are known as “Bondi lentils”. Maybe this name is a reference to their dark colour and is named after the sun worshippers who tan on Bondi beach…I like them because they retain their texture and do not become mushy, like other varieties. Lentils traditionally marry well with game meats. I like to serve lentils with scallops like they do at River Café in London. (And no. I haven’t eaten there. Maybe one day…)

Ingredients
200g Puy lentils (or Bondi lentils)
Stock or water (I used rabbit stock. I usually would not be this extravagant, but it is what I had)
100g pancetta, diced
2 tsp finely chopped ginger
1 garlic clove, finely diced
1 tbsp olive oil
100ml red wine
400g can tomatoes, chopped
Salt
Fresh black pepper
Plenty of coarsely chopped coriander
Extra virgin olive oil

Method
Wash the lentils in a sieve.
Bring the stock or water to the boil, in a saucepan.
Add the lentils and boil gently for 20 minutes. The lentils will absorb most of the stock, and only a small amount of liquid should remain. Drain them only if they are swimming in liquid and set aside.
Saute the pancetta, garlic and half the ginger in the oil. Do this gently until the pancetta is just starting to crisp.
Add the red wine and allow to bubble for a minute.
The lentils go in next followed by the tomatoes.
Cook this gently for 15-20 minutes. The liquid will evaporate and the lentils will be soft, but still retaining their form. Season well.
Finish with the coriander, remaining ginger and a generous drizzle of extra virgin. These last three ingredients really lift the flavours of this dish.
This amount should be enough as a side for 2-4 people (depending on appetites)

Sunday Breakfast

This is my version of Ham and Eggs for breakfast. Duck eggs have richer tasting yolks and softer set whites. They are available from organic food stores. Teamed with prosciutto, organic cream, good butter and real bread, this makes for a very glamorous Sunday breakfast.

Prosciutto with baked Duck Eggs

Ingredients per person
1 duck egg
Butter
1 Tbsp organic cream (If you are going to buy duck eggs and prosciutto, you may as well splurge and get the cream as well)
Salt
Fresh white pepper
50 g thinly sliced prosciutto
Buttered toast, to serve with

Method
Set the oven to 180c. The temperature is important here. I use an oven thermometer. Too high and the eggs will turn into rubber.
Lightly butter a ramekin dish and break one egg into it.
Season with a pinch of salt and pepper.
Pour over a scant tablespoon of cream.
Bake in the oven for about 12 minutes. Start checking after 8 minutes. Over cooked eggs would be a disaster (trust me I have done it before) They are ready when the whites have just set.
Serve on a plate with the prosciutto and toast.

Some Like It Hot!!

During the summer time, I like to marinate sweet red peppers with olive oil, capers and garlic. The following dish is a variation of this by substituting long, red chilli peppers. I served this with grilled scallops and puy lentils last night. It would also go well with grilled beef, chicken or fish. It could also be tossed with pasta or noodles (yet to try). Be warned- those with a sensitive palate should keep far away from these chillies. They are HOT!

Marinated Chilli Peppers

Ingredients
500g long, red chilli peppers
1 tsp ground cumin
2 garlic cloves, crushed, peeled but whole
1 tsp finely chopped ginger
1 tbsp white sugar
1 lime, the zest finely chopped and the juice reserved
Salt
Extra virgin olive oil
Lots of coarsely chopped coriander

Method
Grill the peppers whole, under a hot grill. Turn them often, so they cook evenly. They are ready when their skins are blistered and blackened. The peppers will also have softened considerably.
Place them into a bowl as they become ready. Cover the bowl with cling wrap.
Leave them for about 10 minutes. They will continue steaming from the residual heat. Tear off the skins (which should now be loose, if not just cook them longer).
Slice away the tops and open them out flat. Scrape away the seeds and pith. Discard the skins and seeds. You should now have several chilli pepper “fillets”
Cut these into strips 1cm wide. Place them into a bowl.
Toss with the sugar, spices, garlic and zest. Season with salt. You can go heavier than usual here, the heat of the chillies will balance it.
Toss with plenty of olive oil and leave until you are ready to serve. At the last minute, toss with lime juice and plenty of coriander. Serve in small amounts as suggested above. Note-Squeeze and only add lime juice to the amount of chillies you think you are going to consume. The flavour of lime juice changes quickly. Store the rest of the chillies in the fridge.

Spagetti with Clams, Garlic Butter & Zucchini

There is one food that I am a total snob and completely fussy about and that is pasta. I must admit that I never order pasta when I eat out because past experiences have almost always been bad. There have been few exceptions to this, (mainly fine Italian restaurants) but these have been few over the years. These days I prefer to cook and eat pasta at home, where I am in control and I can cook it the way I like it.

These are a few points which I think are crucial to creating a good dish:

1. Pasta has to be cooked right. Soft pasta is revolting. It reminds me of food you would serve to an old man with no teeth. The whole point of pasta is the texture. Most cooking times on the packet are too long but not always. I find that taking about 2 minutes of the time specified works about right. But always check- the pasta should be firm, but not chalky to the bite. I can tell if pasta is overcooked just by looking at it. Try it this way. If you think its not cooked enough, your palate will adjust over time and you will realize that pasta isn’t simply a bland carrier for a meat sauce. Al dente pasta (firm pasta) will shine with the simplest of sauces because you haven’t robbed it of its texture.
   
2. As soon as the pasta is ready, drain it immediately. You need to work fast. Pasta keeps cooking as you dress it and if you are slow doing this the pasta will be overcooked by the time you get it to the table. Which is another good reason to cook it a bit firmer than most people are used to. When you drain the pasta in a colander, give it a few firm shakes leaving it a bit moist. If you drain it too dry, the pasta will absorb too much sauce. Put the pasta back into the saucepan you used to cook it and drizzle immediately with olive oil. Tossing it in olive oil will prevent the pasta from sticking together. It will glisten and remain separate, rather than a glutinous mass on the plate. Give it a good toss and then add the sauce. Sometimes it is better to add the pasta to the sauce (i.e aglio olio, vongole etc.)
   
3. Please don’t over sauce the pasta. Toss the pasta with just enough sauce to cling to it. It shouldn’t be swimming in sauce and there should be more pasta than sauce. As I serve the pasta I like to top each dish with a spoonful of sauce. Check for salt before serving, as under seasoned pasta is vile.
   
4. And a final point- Parmesan cheese doesn’t go with all pasta dishes. I don’t like it with oily sauces (it interrupt the slipperiness) or sauces where chilli is a prominent flavour (Parmesan cheese and chilli clash. Pecorino may be a better option here).
   
   

Ingredients
200 g long thin pasta (spaghetti, linguine etc)
100g tiniest zucchini you can find (mine where 5cm long)
1 garlic clove, crushed but whole
2 parsley sprigs
Vegetable oil for deep frying
300g clams
40g butter
40ml extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped (extra)
Lots of coarsely chopped parsley
Salt
Fresh white pepper

Method
Heat the vegetable oil in a small saucepan with the whole garlic clove and the parsley sprigs. Do this over a medium heat, rather than a high heat. That way the oil heats evenly. You don’t need a huge quantity of oil. The amount of zucchini is small, so as long as they are submerged it will be fine.
When the oil is hot, discard the garlic and parsley and add the whole zucchini (including the flowers, if they are still attached).
Fry until golden brown. This will only take a few minutes. Drain them on a paper towel and set them aside.
Bring a large pot of water to the boil.
While the water is heating, very gently cook the chopped garlic in the butter and olive oil. Watch the garlic doesn’t burn.
When the water has boiled, salt it well and add your pasta. Cook it as described above.
Now turn the heat up a bit in the pan with the garlic, add your clams and cover. The clams are ready as soon as they open. This will take only a few minutes.
Turn the heat off. If you have timed this right the clams should be ready waiting for the pasta.
Add the drained pasta and the zucchini to the pan and toss it all about. Check the seasoning and add plenty of parsley. Serves 2. And please, no cheese here.